MILAN — Skirts, and more skirts.
That was the unquestionable trend that emerged from Milan Fashion Week for spring 2027, and retailers could not get enough of them, praising Prada‘s offer that focused on the singular garment and its versatility.
Indeed, the freedom to interpret and express fashion individually with a more stylized approach to dressing also emerged powerfully. Craftsmanship — always an added asset in Milan — reached new levels, reflected in unexpected combinations of embellishments and maximalist propositions, luxurious fabrications and artisanal techniques.
“Milan felt confident, cohesive and energized, with a clear emphasis on product and purpose. Italian craftsmanship remained at the heart of the season, with impressive fabric research bringing freshness to wearable pieces,” said Victoria Dartigues, womenswear and accessories buying director at Galeries Lafayette. “The strongest collections balanced heritage with modernity and sensuality without excess, offering clothes with both immediate appeal and lasting value.”
Staying true to the brand’s heritage and legacy while modernizing the offer was praised.
“Sometimes the road to take has been there all along. It looked as if many of the houses in Milan this week looked in the mirror and played into their very own recognizable codes, established over time,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman. “They were, surprise, surprise, themselves! Prada was unmistakably Prada. Jil was very Jil. Ferragamo was exactly who you might want and expect to be. Gucci was so Gucci, and so on across the calendar. It was also encouraging to see the newer creative directions at important houses further defining and taking convincing shape.”
Trends were crystallized, from Bermuda shorts and boudoir dressing with bra tops, slips, robes and sheer fabrics, to crocheted looks and animal and floral patterns contrasting with strong tailoring, utilitarian looks and cargo pants. Lace, sequins, embroideries, fringes and rich details contributed to the colorful styles.
Here is what retailers said about the week.
Marissa Galante Frank, fashion director accessories and beauty, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Prada was wonderful. I loved how Miuccia and Raf [Simons] embraced and reimagined a silhouette that is so true to their DNA. The entire collection was a study in how many different ways you can approach the skirt, from simple and utilitarian to highly embellished. I especially appreciated the versatility of the Velcro styles because they are practical from a sizing perspective, particularly at a time when so many customers’ bodies are shifting in size. Bottega Veneta was a fresh, colorful and optimistic start to spring. Louise Trotter’s creativity and the iconic craftsmanship Bottega Veneta is known for were on full display. Intricate, one-of-a-kind details are something we always look forward to seeing at Bottega Veneta, and this season did not disappoint.
Best presentation concept: Onitsuka Tiger created a fully branded world of roadside attractions inspired by an imaginary Route 66. All of the pit stops were tied together by their bold yellow and black color palette: a gas station, café, car wash, flower shop, laundry and supermarket. My favorite was the small supermarket, where their viral Mexico 66 sneaker was shrink-wrapped and displayed on a shelf like fresh produce. It was playful, unexpected and made the product part of the experience.
Trendspotting: Colorblocking, Bermuda shorts, pochette bags, fringe and sheer dressing. Layering was a major theme, with unexpected combinations and contrasting proportions. Overall, there was a real focus on styling and the idea of reworking familiar wardrobe pieces in new ways, rather than relying on one standout item to make the look feel new.
Must-have item: La DoubleJ embellished pochettes, Fendi Baguettes and, of course, the Prada Velcro skirt.
Buying process: Our customers are responding to well-made wardrobe building blocks as well as emotional items that feel special. This season is very much about expressing your personal style and wearing things in different ways. It’s our responsibility to make sure we give our customers the right balance of wardrobe essentials and new pieces to discover, giving them the tools to build a wardrobe that feels personal and excites them for the season ahead.
General comment on the season: Milan made it abundantly clear that spring 2027 is the season of the skirt. Prada made that statement very literally, but you could see the silhouette and the idea of dressing around the skirt continuing to come through in different ways across the week. From polished and ladylike to more relaxed and directional, the skirt felt like the foundation of the spring wardrobe, signaling a shift toward more intentional, feminine dressing.
Bottega Veneta
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Linda Fargo, senior vice president fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta had everything you might want from a modern Italian fashion house: superlative craftsmanship, breakthrough proportions, and ultimately — an exciting vision. Prada was crystal clear in its message, and in its set design. [Miuccia] Prada, who has always believed in the skirt, made it a fashion imperative for now and for spring. The Bra-da became the plus-one. Jil Sander was a perfect distillation of itself and satisfied a modernist appetite. Fendi was a delicious and exquisitely crafted collection experienced in the showroom. Loro Piana keeps accelerating its range and exquisite materiality. Brunello Cucinelli continues to build upon its unique world of craft and technique with its best-ever spring collection. Meryll Rogge successfully struck the right balance of invention, other girl quirkiness and beloved codes at Marni.
Best presentation concept: Smartly set within a historical repository of knowledge, in Milan’s Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, Loro Piana’s immersive and up-close presentation allowed for both an intellectual and a sensual appreciation of its exquisite product. The setting lent authenticity and depth to the collection. The Gucci Store was a genius way to manifest the ultimate viability of this coalescing on brand rebrand. The see-through, art museum-worthy environment at Prada spoke to one of the week’s underlying trends in transparency.
Trendspotting: Workmanship and craft have become a trend in and of itself with transparency as a layer and a reveal/conceal factor. Color is an important takeaway here. It outranked neutrals and black and white. Blocked or as a pop accent. Unexpected and unusual combines. Both vivid hues and softly muted. High-craft novelty treatments. The pointy toe and the embellished shoe. Organic modernist shoe shapes. In handbags, the longer-shoulder, friendly top-handle is still important.
Must-have item: The item of the week, and already ever-present on the street in the front row, is The Skirt. Novelty ranks, but slip skirts, pleated, twisted and tweaked, are all on the trend and buy shortlist. See yourself in it or not, the bra as top was ever-present in the Milan collections. At Prada, the Bra-da walked many of the looks. Don’t underestimate this trend.
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Prada, Bottega Veneta, Brunello Cucinelli, Gucci.
Best presentation concept: The Gucci shop show space was an ingenious take on immersing the audience in the eyes of the consumer. The space invited us into the world of Gucci, excited us with product on the rails, and reminded everyone of the magic a store can bring to the shopping experience.
Trendspotting: The skirt prevailed as one of the defining pieces of spring ‘27. Prada’s parade of skirts set the tone for the week, showing just how much versatility can come from one wardrobe staple. From tailored and polished to embellished, the skirt became a canvas for personal expression. Casual opulence: Mixing embellished details, bright color blocking and luxurious fabrication with classic, everyday pieces. The result feels less precious and more wearable, allowing customers to bring a sense of glamour into their everyday wardrobe. Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Gucci showed this the best. Boudoir dressing: The body is back. Shape and silhouette are accentuated through body-conscious dresses, sheer and transparent fabrication, lingerie-inspired pieces, feminine ruffles and silk lace trims. The Attico, Ferragamo and Fendi all embraced a more intimate approach to dressing. Abstract craft: Designers played with new silhouettes, asymmetric hemlines and handcrafted details, transforming traditional Italian craft into something more unexpected and modern. Fringe, artisanal techniques and manipulated materials brought a sense of movement and individuality to the collections at Bottega Veneta, Tod’s and Loro Piana.
Must-have item: The skirt was the must-have item for spring ‘27. Prada’s parade of skirts set the tone for the plethora of styles we saw throughout the week; Brunello Cucinelli suede overcoat; Fendi embellished Baguette; Gucci horsebit-adorned handbags and jackets; oversize trench from Max Mara; Tod’s PVC bucket tote bag, and satin-strap pump from Jimmy Choo.
Buying process: Milan wins where craft and creativity blend alongside traditional techniques that can only be found under the Made in Italy label. Exploring both new and established collections is important. We come to touch, feel, and experience the best Milan has to offer, which allows us to curate for our customers and bring the brand stories to life in store.
General comment on the season: The fashion pendulum is shifting toward a more stylized approach to dressing. If the collections this week taught us anything, it’s that clothes are meant to be worn, styled and interpreted. After years of quiet luxury shaping a more pragmatic approach to dressing, we are seeing a return to individuality and personal expression. Spring ‘27 feels less about prescribing one way to dress and more about giving the customer the freedom to create their own point of view. From the return of the skirt and expressive femininity to bold color, craftsmanship and embellishment, there is a sense of freedom and possibility that feels fresh for the season.
Chloe King, fashion director, women’s, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue
Favorite collections: Jil Sander, Prada, Marni, Bottega Veneta.
Best presentation concept: Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina kicked off their new chapter at Moschino with the most clever concept: showing their collection amongst a cast of 400 unique characters, a moving display of bustling Milanese life. Models walked against the rush, a reminder that the sidewalk is the ultimate runway. Earlier that day, Loro Piana unlocked the beautiful Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, an exquisitely serene setting for their presentation.
Trendspotting: Sheerness and transparency, lingerie and boudoir dressing — bra tops, slips, robes and kimonos. Footwear ranged from flat and practical to floral, crystal and gem-encrusted. We saw long shorts and capris take shape. As the general attitude lightened up for spring, we saw a lean capri take shape and super sophisticated color combinations — powdery grays and blushes with a burst of something unexpected like poppy, orange and violet which looked fresh and cool at Marni and Jil Sander.
Must-have item: A Prada skirt, however you like it: pleated or pencil, printed or bejeweled or leather or nylon. Mrs. Prada and Mr. Simons made a compelling case for the skirt as an item of the season.
General comment on the season: We felt a lightening up in Milan this week, via sheerness and transparency at Ferragamo and Fendi, sensual performance art at Diesel, a Sicilian sea breeze at Dolce & Gabbana, and a softer touch of craft at Bottega Veneta. The result is a delightful refocusing on wearability, with clothes rooted in reality that have just enough of a twist to evoke emotion.
Kate Benson, chief merchant, Harvey Nichols
Favorite collections: Prada, for being so utterly Prada.
Best presentation concept: Gucci’s store-as-runway was a great concept that put the end customer, and the importance of reaching them authentically, right at the heart of the show. Milan is also so important for the presentations of its major shoe brands. Gianvito Rossi put on a cool, fun cocktail party to present its new collection of joyful shoes that reimagined some of its most iconic styles, as the brand celebrates 20 years.
Trendspotting: After the last few seasons of bold, primary colors, pastels have taken over as the dominant palette with lilac, pistachio and lemon hues. For spring/summer 2027, pastels were used to regulate noisier silhouettes and prints, and as a check on volume and pattern, as opposed to being chosen as a soft, safe default.
Must-have item: It’s impossible to look past the skirt given that Prada dedicated the whole show to celebrating it. Lingerie bra tops also took center stage, often used as a styling trick under dresses or masculine shirting to complete the look. A special call-out goes to Jil Sander’s new pump that I will be wearing on repeat; I particularly loved the dove gray tone.
Buying process: We choose to work with a tight edit of brands, with meaningful assortments that focus on curation and the spirit of the collection, rather than being too item-driven.
General comment on the season: The mood was less “what’s new” and more “what’s ours.” Every major house looked back into its own archive, rather than forward into a trend — it was more about conviction than novelty.
Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion venture officer, Mytheresa
Favorite collections: Prada, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Fendi and Jil Sander. Prada delivered a quintessential Miuccia Prada collection, celebrating the skirt through a fresh reinterpretation by Raf Simons. The collection felt feminine, playful and intelligent, capturing exactly the sense of ease and optimism we want to see for summer.
Best presentation concept: Gucci’s decision to stage the show within the setting of a Gucci store was particularly smart and immersive. It immediately communicated the focus of the season, inviting you into the world of the glamorous Gucci customer and making the retail experience part of the storytelling.
Trendspotting: Femininity is being fully embraced, with a more expressive approach to dressing that feels confident, sensual and unapologetically feminine. By contrast, the athleisure trend feels increasingly like it belongs to the past, as the mood shifts towards more considered and elevated dressing.
Must-have item: It is definitely a skirt season. The category feels particularly relevant now, offering endless possibilities to play with proportion, femininity and styling while bringing a fresh energy to the wardrobe.
General comment on the season: [It was all about] femininity-maxxing.
Gucci
Swan Gallet
April Hennig, president, Moda Operandi
Favorite collections: Prada’s clear and covetable collection of standout skirts was instantly iconic. Bottega Veneta was lighter, yet rich with unmatched artisanship. Ferragamo was as seductive as it was sophisticated.
Trendspotting: Skirts were clearly the key classification, in a variety of styles, mostly knee-length, with embroidered pencil skirts being the standout at Prada, Etro and Marni. Prada, Fendi and Des_Phemmes also showed an empowering and feminine combination of bra tops with knee-length skirts. In terms of accessories, there were beaded fringe novelty handbags at Fendi and Etro, and belts were another key focus, both styled in multiples and integrated into ready-to-wear at Gucci, Ferragamo, Marni. The reigning color palette was pastel, notably at Jil Sander and Bottega Veneta. There was a surprising use of industrial materials like rubber at Ferragamo and Velcro at Prada, and in turn a sense of utility inspiration in the form of cargo pockets at Max Mara and Ferragamo. On the other hand, there was also doily-like crochet and lace at Dolce and Bottega. The lived-in sensibility we saw in New York continued, with manipulated wrinkle pleats at Jil Sander, intentionally laissez-faire garments at The Attico, and undone styling at Fendi and Prada.
Must-have item: Calling all collectors: any of Prada’s 63 runway skirts are the must-have item of the season. Other iconic pieces will be Gucci’s triple horsebit corset belts and shoulder bags, Bottega’s slip-on flats in a variety of fabrications and the new soft dust bag, and Fendi’s novelty beaded baguettes.
Budgets: Budgets are up in the most emotional and compelling collections.
General comments on the season: Designers are connecting to the “real world” client with easy-to-understand and straightforward product — this was most evident at Prada and Gucci, and in the softer approach at Bottega Veneta. At the same time, Milan leaned into a sense of sexy opulence in eveningwear. Collections this week were versatile, taking the client from day to evening with a sense of seduction and confidence.
Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear, Selfridges
Favorite collections: Prada, Jil Sander, Brunello Cucinelli, Fendi, Gucci.
Best presentation concept: The Diesel show. Glenn Martens’ final collection for the brand was highly immersive, featuring a unique conceptual element where part of the audience performed live while the runway show was ongoing.
Trendspotting: Richer, more intricate designs dominated the Milan runways across the board. Even brands deeply rooted in minimalism, such as Jil Sander and Loro Piana, evolved their aesthetic through sophisticated fabrics, innovative shapes and precise cuts that ensure strong relevancy for the upcoming season.
Must-have item: Prada skirts. Ideally, all of them.
Budgets: We are confident about the season ahead.
Buying process: Brands from Milan are highly sophisticated in their collection development. Show concepts are being seamlessly built out into comprehensive, commercial offerings that span all product categories.
General comment on the season: So far so good and excited to head over to Paris for the next chapter of spring/summer 2027.
Tiziana Fausti, owner, Tiziana Fausti and 10 Corso Como
Favorite collections: Jil Sander
Best presentation concept: Moschino
Trendspotting: Skirt and tailored jacket
Must-have item: Pencil skirt
Victoria Dartigues, womenswear and accessories buying director, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Prada, Jil Sander, Marni, Bottega Veneta, Fendi.
Best presentation concept: Gucci’s immersive store setting brought the collection’s characters to life, Loro Piana’s presentation at the Braidense National Library was stunning. Moschino’s mix of models and everyday characters created a lively street energy and Diesel’s finale ended on a real high.
Trendspotting: A strong femininity continues to define the season, but in a way that feels modern, confident and less polished. Lingerie became an integral part of everyday dressing, with bras worn as tops and slipdresses appearing across the collections. Embellishment was equally strong, from sequins and crystal embroidery to intricate surface treatments, often balanced by clean silhouettes. Heritage dressing took on a more subversive edge, mixing preppy and equestrian references with grunge, while pale pastels brought softness to the season.
Must-have item: Skirts, with Prada offering the clearest and most complete expression of the season’s key item. The variety of textures, volumes and finishes showed how a skirt can become the starting point of a look. Gucci’s oversize leather bomber was another standout, bringing attitude to an everyday wardrobe. The bra top also emerged as a strong styling piece, layered under tailoring or paired with a statement skirt.
Budgets: Our focus is on investing selectively in distinctive products with lasting wardrobe relevance. Exceptional materials, craftsmanship and a clear brand identity are central to those choices. We see opportunity in statement skirts and elevated embellished pieces.
Buying process: The showroom is where we assess how runway ideas translate into compelling assortments, looking closely at fit, fabrication and versatility. We want to balance immediately desirable pieces with discoveries that keep our offer fresh and distinctive.
Jil Sander
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Angélique Liautaud, women’s buying and merchandising director, Printemps
Favorite collections: Prada, Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Gucci, Max Mara, Brunello Cucinelli. Prada presented the skirt as a vocabulary, demonstrating the infinite possibilities that can emerge from an archetypal garment. At Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti reinterpreted the house’s precise and disciplined narrative, introduced movement as well as controlled imperfection. We saw twisted tailoring, crumpled fabrics and sculptural volumes. Flashes of colors disrupted the usual neutral palette, touches of pink, yellow, and purple, which brought softness and fluidity.
Best presentation concept: Prada was, once again, a masterclass in styling, this season centered around the skirt, Miuccia Prada’s most enduring signature. A starting point for an entire exploration of proportion, femininity and identity. Pencil, pleated, embellished, embroidered, sheer, or sharply cut, the skirt as a vehicle for different attitudes. Styled with bra tops, biker jackets or knitwear. A brilliant demonstration of the skirt’s versatility and its limitless capacity for reinvention.
Trendspotting: A strong sense of femininity this season, familiar wardrobe archetypes reinterpreted through proportion, deconstruction, layering and transparency. Utilitarian dressing but elevated and recontextualized: cargo trousers, safari and biker jackets. Craftsmanship and texture remained central: crochet, organza, leather, satin. Also, lingerie moves into the everyday wardrobe: bra tops, sheer fabrics, delicate layers, bringing softness and femininity.
Must-have item: Prada Velcro-embellished skirt and bra bags. Bralettes styled with skirts. Jil Sander deconstructed jacket, a new take on tailoring. Gucci leather bomber jackets paired with tartan skirts. New editions of the iconic Fendi Baguette bag. Oversize statement bags at Bottega Veneta. Crochet knitwear at Brunello Cucinelli.
General comment on the season: Milan once again lived up to its expectations, with a season defined by an exploration of contrasts: sensuality met utility; structure gave way to fluidity. There was also a conceptual approach to familiar wardrobe staples. Designers revisited the skirt, the jacket, the cargo, the biker jacket; questioning their traditional codes and exploring how they can be worn today. This season found newness in the familiar.
Caterina Ercoli, women’s buying director, Antonioli
Favorite collections: Prada, Gucci, Ferragamo, MM6, Francesco Murano.
Best presentation concept: Taller Marmo, Sebbie, The Attico.
Trendspotting: New glam, body-con/power shoulder, summer sensuality, romantic vintage, animalier and floral.
Must-have items: Lingerie dresses and small pieces, fitted and power-shoulder blazers, lace sets, low-waisted trousers, Y2K shoulder bags, east-west shaped bags, pointed pumps.
Budgets: Decreasing compared to spring 2026.
General overview: Awaiting Paris Fashion Week to consolidate final trends and purchasing decisions. Overall, there is a clear shift from minimalism toward more feminine and iconic looks.
Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer, Net-a-porter
Favorite collections: Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Etro, Jil Sander and Prada.
Best presentation concept: Blazé Milano had the most beautiful garden presentation. The swans and berry desserts were impossible not to photograph. La DoubleJ’s venue was absolutely incredible, and I also love all of their small embellished evening bags. Gianvito Rossi’s 20th anniversary was extremely well attended and so much fun. I especially loved the live frames with the models’ feet.
Trendspotting: Summer checks and mixing your prints. Bras being worn as a top and lots of fringing. Spring/summer 2027 is definitely skirt season.
Must-have item: Embellished slides from Dolce & Gabbana, riding boots from Gucci, Dalmatian and turquoise mules from Jimmy Choo, Bottega Veneta’s hand-crocheted coated cotton handbag and Prada’s bra. It will be hard to pick just one skirt from Prada.
Buying process: Communication is key. I share my favorite looks with the team and I try to attend as many showroom appointments with my team, but unfortunately it is humanly impossible to attend them all.
General comments on the season: We had a great week in Milan. It was a good mix of shows, presentations and events. I particularly enjoyed my evening at Cabana for the celebration of their collaboration with Brunello Cucinelli.
Brooke Bobb, vice president fashion director, Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Jil Sander, Gucci, Prada, and Bottega Veneta
Best presentation concept: Demna firmly planted his flag at Gucci this season by showing us a complete 360 view of how he sees the house existing in both luxury fashion and the larger zeitgeist today. His vision was crystallized through the well-executed breadth of clothes — sexy suiting and body-con dresses, classic Sciura-style coats, skinny equestrian pants and cleverly placed horsebits on bomber jackets and blazers — but also through the show set built in the style of the new Gucci store concept.
Trendspotting: Thanks to Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons, spring is the season of the skirt. We’ve been seeing an array of skirts throughout the month thus far, but no one can transmit a multitude of ideas through a single garment like Mrs. Prada and Simons. As the designer once declared herself, the skirt is like a T-shirt — classic, cool, effortless, and endless in its sartorial possibilities. In Milan, we’ve also seen some fantastic colorblocking by way of Simone Bellotti’s excellent collection for Jil Sander, and a delightful debut collection filled with more great colorblocking and modeled by real Milanese people, from Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo at Moschino.
Must-have item: The skirt. Any version will do, but best with a touch of embellishment or a voluminous silhouette.
Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion, Harrods
Best collections: Bottega Veneta, Prada, Fendi and Loro Piana.
Best presentation concept: Loro Piana, set in the historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense at Palazzo di Brera. The spectacular rooms provided a beautiful setting for the collection — a space I had never seen before in 30 years of coming to Milan.
Trendspotting: Skirts. A message set by Prada, but seen everywhere. Skirts and separates dominated over dresses this season. From pencil to pleated, mini to knee-length, sheer to leather, and understated to embellished — the skirt ruled the runway. Bras were ubiquitous as the top of choice, while lingerie-inspired looks were inescapable, with lace, silk and satin throughout the collections. Sheer and transparent fabrics moved from day to night, appearing across tailoring and more formal silhouettes as well as eveningwear. Balancing this, we saw strong tailoring, with exceptional jackets and coats ranging from form-fitting to boxy. Parachute trousers in fluid fabrics, draped scarf detailing on shirting and fringing also emerged as smaller trends. Color was a tale of two halves, as is often the case in Milan. Collections tended to sit on one side of a clear divide: either black and neutrals with very limited shots of color, or a kaleidoscope of color and print.
Must-have item: No contest: a pleated and bejeweled Prada skirt.
General comment on the season: A Milan Fashion Week without any significant debuts delivered a week in which designers elaborated on their established codes, whether longstanding or still relatively new. There were beautiful collections, but less drama and anticipation than in recent seasons. As always, Milan demonstrated the many ways Italian fashion is interpreted today, but with a consistent commitment to the magic and craftsmanship created by the hands of the people in the ateliers.
Backstage at Ferragamo.
Alexia Stok/WWD
Beppe Nugnes, president, Nugnes 1920
Favorite collections: Prada, Bottega Veneta and Fendi were among my favorites this season. Prada was extremely strong because it took something as familiar as the skirt and made it feel desirable and new again, playing with different lengths, proportions and attitudes. It was a very clear statement, but at the same time you could immediately imagine many of those pieces in the store and on very different women. Bottega Veneta had a beautiful balance between craftsmanship, texture and lightness, with pieces that felt special without becoming overcomplicated. And I really liked Fendi for its femininity and sophistication. It felt elegant, but contemporary, with a sense of ease that makes the collection relevant for today’s customer. Overall, these were collections with a strong identity, but also with clothes that you can really see people wanting to wear.
Best presentation concept: For me, Gucci won hands-down. Transforming the show space into an actual Gucci boutique, complete with sales assistants, was quite extraordinary. It was immersive, but at the same time extremely relevant because it brought the focus back to the store and to the relationship between fashion and retail. As a retailer, I found that particularly powerful: it was not simply a spectacular set, but a statement about where fashion ultimately meets the customer.
Trendspotting: There is a strong return to tailoring across both womenswear and menswear, but what I find interesting is how broad and flexible it has become. It is no longer associated with one generation or one specific type of customer. We are seeing tailoring that can speak to a very young client as much as to a more mature one, with different proportions, constructions and ways of styling it. For me, that versatility is one of the strongest messages of the season. Some brands explored a softer and less conventional idea of power dressing, while elsewhere classic tailoring is being twisted, deconstructed and made much more individual.
Must-have item: The skirt. After seeing Prada, I think women everywhere will want one. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons essentially built the entire collection around the skirt, but what made it so convincing was the incredible variety of interpretations. It demonstrated that a very familiar wardrobe piece can suddenly feel desirable and new again. For a retailer, that is always a very strong signal.
Budgets: Our budgets will remain broadly unchanged. What will change is the level of attention we give to margins and markups. In the current market, buying more is not necessarily the answer; buying better is. We need to understand very clearly where the value is, both for us as retailers and, ultimately, for our customers.
Buying process: The buying process itself will not fundamentally change, but we will be even more selective. The relationship between price and quality is becoming increasingly important. Customers today are extremely informed and sensitive to value, even at the luxury level. A beautiful product alone is not always enough: the quality, craftsmanship and price have to make sense together. That balance will play an increasingly important role in our decisions.
General comment on the season: What I find encouraging this season is that there seems to be a renewed focus on clothes and on the customer. There is creativity, of course, but also a sense of reality: pieces that have personality and a strong point of view, while still having a place in somebody’s wardrobe. For a retailer like Nugnes, this is important. We are always looking for emotion and surprise, but ultimately our role is to understand what will create desire when it reaches the store.
Stephanie Moor, buying director, Level Shoes
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta was my standout. Louise Trotter kept the house’s craft but made it lighter and more summery, with Venetian lace and homespun touches. The accessories were exceptional: red intrecciato clutches, rubber ballerina flats, white intrecciato tall boots and jeweled loafers. In footwear, Paris Texas impressed on its official Milan schedule debut, with vibrant color and embellishments inspired by tropical flowers and corals. Aquazzura captured the summer mood perfectly with florals and raffia, just what our client wants for resort.
Best presentation concept: Jimmy Choo. Its Character Studies presentation placed statues of the Jimmy Choo woman in a timeless, placeless space, so all the focus fell on the product. It showed that accessories create the look. My favorite was the Izu mule pump in snakeskin with a bold turquoise brooch.
Trendspotting: Texture, craft and ornament are back in the conversation. Neutrals feel dated, and soft pastels and bold pops of color are back in full force. And there was real summer energy throughout, from Bottega’s floor-sweeping fringed straw bag and tie-up sandals to Aquazzura’s florals and raffia.
Must-have item: The sculptural heel is back. Prada’s revived archival banana heel is the must-have of the season. At Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis replaced the Vara pump’s traditional bow with an origami-like form, giving the icon a fresh, younger edge.
Budgets and buying process: We’re investing more behind houses with clear creative momentum in accessories, and in newness, color, exotics and exclusives/emerging brands that set Level apart globally. This season we also launched The Attico spring 2027 as a see-now-buy-now drop straight after its Milan show, so clients could shop the collection the moment it left the runway. That immediacy matters more and more, and it’s a model we want to build on with the right partners.
General comment on the season: This season was a bold study in contrasts. Elevated flats dominate for day, while statement heels confirm that sculptural, artful footwear is officially back. It’s one of the most exciting accessories seasons in a long time.
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