PARIS — Despite the current frenzy over the late Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy’s 1990s wardrobe, minimalism has been maxed out — at least according to buyers following a Paris Fashion Week that moved away from “quiet luxury” toward emotional, expressive and more feminine silhouettes.
Tailoring was most frequently cited as a top trend, with designers emphasizing sculpted jackets, defined waists and leaner proportions after years of oversize shapes. Buyers also pointed to a renewed focus on sensuality, with lace, peplums, corsetry and body-skimming silhouettes appearing across collections.
Outerwear emerged as the season’s most important category, with retailers repeatedly citing coats and jackets as the anchors of their fall buys. Retailers said customers continue to view outerwear as an investment item capable of carrying an entire wardrobe, making it one of the safest places to spend in uncertain times.
Accessories will make a statement, as scarves, brooches, gloves and statement jewelry are key sales drivers — now less an afterthought but central to the complete look — and notably available at lower entry price points.
If there’s a race between the big houses, Chanel and Christian Dior are neck-and-neck, with the two emerging equally as buyers’ favorite collections. (Not to mention the frenzy at Chanel stores during the week for pieces from Matthieu Blazy’s first collection was all anyone could talk about.)
They were followed by Haider Ackermann’s Tom Ford and Michael Rider’s Celine, suggesting that after several creative director shuffles, the chess board has stopped shuffling, and designers are beginning to settle into their roles and deliver more cohesive visions.
Matières Fécales fall 2026
Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Matièr
But Matières Fécales emerged as a bit of a dark horse, as several buyers described the show as “cinematic” and the designers “wildly talented.”
Several retailers also noted that the season felt notably product-driven, with designers presenting wardrobes grounded in wearability and commercial appeal rather than directional or divisive.
Despite a backdrop of geopolitical tensions and economic uncertainty — only heightened by the outbreak of the attack on Iran on the eve of the shows — the mood among buyers during the season was notably upbeat with retailers calling it “energetic,” “fizzy,” “joyous” and even “extraordinarie.”
The positive sentiment stood in contrast to broader global anxieties, which were largely absent from most buyers’ assessments. One of the few to acknowledge the external climate was Eric Young, owner of Shanghai-based Le Monde De SHC, who framed the season as “cautious.”
“The economic climate hasn’t improved much, and during fashion week we even saw new geopolitical conflicts emerge. In response, many womenswear collections seem to be moving in the opposite direction — seeking visibility and impact,” he said.
Budgets reflected cautious optimism. Many retailers said spending was either steady or slightly higher this season, though most emphasized a more focused buying strategy, concentrating on investment pieces — particularly outerwear and accessories — that can elevate an outfit but are also solid commercial plays.
Here are buyers’ reactions to the fall 2026 Paris season:
Dior fall 2026
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Elodie Abrial, sales director, Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche and Samaritaine Paris
Favorite collections: Dior, Celine, Givenchy, Chanel, Chloé
Trend that will matter: Tailoring, which we’ve seen for a few seasons, is still very present and will go on. Quiet luxury is evolving with more femininity, through details: soft leather, cuts and a bit more of sexiness.
Budgets up, down or flat: Budgets are globally up, depending on brands’ performances and collections.
Categories with a deeper buy: Coats are definitely key pieces for any winter season, but for fall 2026 this piece is unmissable. More globally, we will bet on wearable pieces with an added value.
Show that best met the moment: Dior — when the planets align through a beautiful and most poetic setup under an unexpected sun of March, and above all [it was] a collection that combined all the heritage of the maison in a feminine and very desirable modernity. The jackets — especially The Bar jacket and its softened interpretation — the embellished denims, the coats and the tulle and silk skirts and dresses that were close to couture [were memorable].
Did you feel any vibe shift this season: The quiet luxury that could be a bit “flat” goes a little in favor of a more elevated and feminine version with more relief. And a lot of black, not the sad color people might have in mind, but a powerfully elegant and vibrant one, combined with touches of color.
The season in one word: Elegant sensuality, restrained but assertive.
Kate Benson, chief merchant, Harvey Nichols
Trend that will matter: All black where texture and fabric take center stage. Shearlings, [faux] furs and leather giving volume and drama to the looks. Velvet — creating sophisticated evening looks. Folklore trend seen at Chloe referencing ditzy floral prints, plaids, checks, corduroy and embellishment.
Budgets up, down or flat: We are in a growth phase and building our budgets.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: Shoes are one of our fastest-growing categories. With the buzz around Chanel styles, they’re becoming a key part of the outfit and a way for customers to express their style. We’re also investing in high-value shearling and leather pieces where customers can clearly see the value.
Categories with a deeper buy: The idea of “alternative eveningwear” that doesn’t feel traditional but is modern, cool and sophisticated. Standout brands for this will be The Row, Khaite, Margiela, Issey Miyake and Dries Van Noten.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: Building on her success over the last few seasons, we are excited about Colleen Allen and will be adding to our assortment for fall 2026.
Show that best met the moment: Dior was joyful, light and full of beauty. A redefinition of luxury with a clear vision. It was so successful in building a world that the customer will want to be part of.
Did you feel a “vibe shift” this season: There has been a marked move to femininity, whatever that interpretation of it may be. Gucci to Givenchy to Chanel to Chloe — very different takes on femininity but it remains central to the thinking.
The season in one word: Mixed.
Andrea Bonecco, head of buying womenswear, menswear, and children, La Rinascente
Favorite collections: Tom Ford, Dior, Chanel, YSL, Miu Miu
Trend that will matter: Black garments, tailored suits with flared trousers, dresses with drapes, sheaths and lace. Longuette skirts paired with narrow-waisted jackets. Many fur options or fur details.
Trend that won’t: The time for down jackets or nylon proposals is gone.
Budgets up, down or flat: Our overall seasonal budget is increasing. However, within our own buying strategy, we have slightly reduced the percentage allocated to fashion show pieces.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: We invest in the categories that drive our business: shoes and accessible luxury ready-to-wear.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season: We are expanding our shoes offer, while in RTW we are focusing on accessible and timeless luxury pieces.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: I watched very carefully the debut of Balmain’s new designer.
What show best met the moment: Tom Ford.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: Yes. Fewer shows that focus on spectacularity and a greater focus on the product itself.
The season in one word: Exciting and vibrant.
Beth Buccini, owner and founder, Kirna Zabête
Favorite collections: Gabriela Hearst, Alaïa, Saint Laurent, Chloé, Chanel — because, really, that’s all anyone is talking about and where everyone is shopping. The frenzy is real.
Trend that will matter: Bold colors — yellow, red and purple — are everywhere. Usually, with the fall runway, we see a more muted palette, which is still around, but the runway pops of color we saw in Paris were fun.
Trend that won’t: The great thing about this season is that there is something for everyone in Paris. I didn’t like some of the prints we saw, but so many designers marched to their own beat this season, which was wonderful to see.
Budgets up, down or flat: Budgets are up.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: Both! We are increasing our spend with designers where we already have great success. We’re doubling down on what works and going into the runway with a refined, focused attention.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: Outerwear. We saw a significant increase in fall 2025, a category with room for growth. Clients are willing to spend on coats, and we had great success with Nour Hammour, Utzon and Loulou de Saison. We sold them to the piece last season, so we’re deepening our buy here.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: We actually had a moment to see some American designers in Paris, and we loved Fforme and Zankov.
Show that best met the moment: Besides Chanel, we loved Gabriela Hearst and thought it was her strongest collection yet. The combination of the beautiful fabrics and intricate details in the gorgeous Petit Palais was truly magical.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: There was more joy this season. The weather helped for sure, with gorgeous sunny days, but there was a sense of ease and fun that had been missing. The world is intense right now, and people want a distraction. Desirability is the most important thing designers can provide, and we felt that this season.
The season in one word: Joyful
Backstage at Chloé fall 2026.
Adam Katz Sinding/WWD
Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer, Net-a-porter
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Alaïa, The Row, Saint Laurent
Trend that will matter: Timeless silhouettes, that reference an archive or a past trend like the ‘90s, but that feel modern.
Show that best met the moment: The Row
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? There has been a real sense of excitement this Paris, that comes with several creative directors showing their sophomore collections. The anticipation of how they have developed their respective visions for historic houses has kept us all talking.
The season in one word: Eclectic
Victoria Dartigues, buying director for women rtw and accessories, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, Celine, Courrèges
Trend that will matter: This season marks the resurgence of a sexy and assertive femininity. A sculpted silhouette of a power woman, whose determination is expressed through an incredibly chic and sophisticated allure. The waist is rigorously defined by Basque jackets that accentuate hips, while the line is stretched to infinity by sleek fuseau trousers paired with sharp pointed-toe pumps or high-knee boots. This confident stride unfolds within a world of pure luxury, where black-tie looks end almost all the catwalks.
Trend that won’t: Quiet luxury and tone look.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: To invest in this season’s sexy allure, one must prioritize sleek fuseau trousers paired with high-knee boots, while faux fur makes a significant impact either as statement coats or refined accents on collars. Leather jackets remain timeless essentials with year-round appeal that continue to dominate the runways, alongside a rising presence of the contemporary bomber jacket. There’s the striking return of tailoring, particularly the tuxedo suit showcased either as a powerful total look or more casually styled.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: Duran Lantink’s second show for Jean Paul Gaultier completed a season where high-fashion drama meets a wearable, assertive reality. Haider Ackermann’s female silhouette [at Tom Ford] has evolved remarkably this season, seducing the industry with a sophisticated dégaine that resonates deeply with many women. Antonin Tron’s debut at Balmain offered a softer, more fluid silhouette — confident and sexy, yet with a newfound sense of ease. It felt like a genuine wardrobe for the modern woman, rather than an Oscar red-carpet moment.
Show that best met the moment: Pieter Mulier’s latest show for Alaïa stood as a poignant highlight, offering a conclusion that remained deeply faithful to the house’s original spirit.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: Following a major designer reshuffle in September, this season feels like a definitive “second act,” where new creative directions are settling in and sharpening their identities: Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, with more knitwear and low waists echoing the Gabrielle era, and Jonathan Anderson at Dior, with a perfect mix between his personal aesthetic — a relaxed attitude — and Dior codes. Under the Parisian sun, the sophisticated yet grounded looks revealed a highly commercial season rooted in real wardrobes.
The season in one word: Sophisticated
Laura Darmon, buyer director and business development, ENG China
Favorite collections: Tom Ford, Matières Fécales, Saint Laurent, ERD, Jean Paul Gaultier
Trend that won’t: A pass on oversize fits.
Budgets up, down or flat: Up
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: I’m being more cautious with heavy knitwear, as the winter is quite short, and increasing trousers and leather goods.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: Yes — leather, shoes and accessories.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: Matières Fécales, which we introduced last season, is looking particularly impressive this season.
Show that best met the moment: Matières Fécales truly spoiled us. The show unfolded in three acts, lasted an hour and felt cinematically like a [Stanley] Kubrick movie. The casting was on point, the clothes looked incredible — nothing more to say…a real show.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: I’d say we’re back to leather, slim fits and refined tailoring. It feels refreshing, finally.
The season in one word: Organic
Tom Ford fall 2026
Courtesy of Tom Ford
Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Dior, Celine, Tom Ford, Chanel, Alaïa
Trend that will matter: Leaner silhouettes, tailoring, bold color, innovative neck details and scarves, texture, peplum shapes and statement outerwear.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: Nordstrom has long been a destination for shoes, and Paris reinforced the strength and relevance of the category this season. From Celine’s covetable boots and kitten heels to Dior’s polka?dot, old?world heels and Saint Laurent stilettos, collections pointed to a long, lean silhouette. The excitement around Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Chanel was palpable, with a wave of new shoe ideas that felt fresh and directional.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: Two discoveries that stood out were LVMH Prize semifinalists Act N.1 and Julie Kegels.
Show that best met the moment: A remix of Lady Gaga’s “Just Dance” set the tone at Chanel, underscoring the collection’s sense of joy and movement. Haider Ackermann’s Tom Ford offered another impactful moment, standing out for its intimacy and technical skill.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: There was a noticeable shift toward opulence, with collections feeling more dressed and feminine. From the rich fabrics and peplum shapes at Dior to the iridescent tweeds at Chanel, the mood balanced decor with real?world sensibility.
The season in one word: Optimistic
Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Chanel, Dior, Tom Ford, Alaïa, Loewe
Trend that will matter: A coat wardrobe: blouson, clean topcoat and drama shearling. Striking black tailored wardrobe essentials. A polished, well-accessorized appearance. Classic feminine signifiers: pointy stilettos, longer top-handle bags, slipdresses and body-skimming dressing celebrating the female form. Pops of leopard and the French blue shirt with big cuffs. Velvet, leather, croc and texture.
New discoveries or new brand buys: Matières Fécales
Show that best met the moment: Chanel and Dior more than met the moment, crystallizing the promise and reward of bold, directional changes at big houses with so much at stake.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: There was a big shift toward glamour and unapologetic beauty. Couture level materials and constructions leaned into further differentiating “luxury.”
The season in one word: Another level
Kohei Hashimoto, Restyle buyer, Isetan Shinjuku
Favorite collections: Dior, Chanel, Dries Van Noten, Mame Kurogouchi, Cecilie Bahnsen
Trend that will matter: Everyday ease, lightness and movement combined with warm craftsmanship and versatility [is here to stay].
Trend that won’t: We will skip heavy, overly constructed and aggressive trends that limit wearability.
Budgets up, down or flat: Our overall budget is flat, but we plan to take a slightly bolder approach to outerwear this season.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: We are expanding versatile pieces for everyday styling, while being more cautious with items tied to specific occasions.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: Versatile yet expressive outerwear — especially coats that capture the iconic DNA of a brand — along with accessories that feel like personal talismans.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: Pauline Dujancourt
Show that best met the moment: Cecilie Bahnsen — the show felt wearable, optimistic and very human.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: In a different way from the COVID[-19] era, this season reaffirmed the value of everyday wearability and versatility.
The season in one phrase: Filled with quiet optimism — like a wish for people around the world to smile and skip together under a gentle sun.
Cecilie Bahnsen fall 2026
Umberto Fratini/Courtesy of Ceci
April Hennig, president, Moda Operandi
Favorite collections: Dior, The Row, Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Dries Van Noten
Trend that will matter: The overarching trend is moving toward a powerful, confident and self-assured aesthetic. Key elements include the “deceptive simplicity” of close-to-the-body silhouettes at The Row and Alaïa, alongside sharp tailoring from Tom Ford and Givenchy, and the full leather looks at Balenciaga and Gabriela Hearst. A return to ornate fabrics and details seen at Dior and Dries Van Noten add a more personal touch.
Trend that won’t: We are moving on from the “quiet luxury” of seasons past.
Budgets up, down or flat: We are operating with a macro-aware yet client-focused approach. Given the strength of the Paris collections and positive momentum in business, budgets are up.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: We are focusing on premium luxury brands that have generated heightened desirability with elevated offerings. Our client has a strong appetite for uniquely special pieces, and we will be leaning into the robust offering of innovative and precious fabrications and embroideries, and complete-the-look accessories. We are being cautious with product that is either overly conceptual or too basic.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: We are expanding separates categories for both day and evening, focusing on sharp and feminine tailoring, funnel neck jackets, total leather looks, croc embossed everything, ornate embroidery, plaid daywear, stirrups and tights. We are also getting behind styling accessories, which are no longer an afterthought but an integral part of the look — silk scarves, brooches, gloves, long necklaces and headwear.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: We continue to champion emerging talents in Paris like Burc Akyol and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt. Paris is the international fashion capital, allowing us to connect with brands from around the world including Le Sundial, Petra Fagerstrom, Goyagoma and Kartik Research.
Show that best met the moment: Celine, The Row and Gabriela Hearst led the pack with aspirational, beautifully crafted pieces that still carried the right dose of personality — exactly how sophisticated women want to dress every day.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: Following anticipation around last season’s many creative director debuts, this week in Paris brought a sense of real clarity, with designers showcasing more confident expressions of their visions. Simultaneously, as spring product arrives in-store, we are seeing real-time customer enthusiasm. It is clear that this new class is generating excitement in the market.
The season in one word: Intention
Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa
Favorite collections: Chloé, Chanel, Magda Butrym, Saint Laurent, Celine
Trend that will matter: Sophisticated ease will define the season ahead: a wardrobe that feels relaxed and comfortable while remaining impeccably polished and quietly impactful. Texture plays a key role, with shearling and faux-fur details appearing across outerwear and accessories, adding richness without excess.
Trend that won’t: Overly sporty utility feels less relevant now, as silhouettes sharpen and proportions evolve from oversize toward leaner, more sculpted lines, often rendered in ultra-supple leather.
Where are you increasing spend or being more cautious: We are meaningfully increasing spend in cocktail and eveningwear, as well as in statement outerwear, where the runway offered exceptional depth and creativity. High heels continue to perform extremely well, prompting us to expand our selection of elevated evening shoes and occasion styles. Conversely, we are being more selective with ballerinas and sneakers, shifting focus toward refined flats such as loafers for everyday dressing.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: Ready-to-wear remains a key growth engine for us, particularly pieces with strong silhouette and distinctive fabrication. Shoes are another category where we see continued momentum and opportunity to deepen the assortment. Together, these segments allow us to build compelling, fashion-forward wardrobes for our customers.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: We are still finalizing the emerging brand mix for the season. The focus remains on designers who bring a clear point of view and craftsmanship that resonates with a sophisticated luxury audience. We prefer to introduce new names thoughtfully, ensuring they complement the broader brand landscape.
Show that best met the moment: Chanel, Celine, Saint Laurent, The Row and Chloé captured the spirit of the moment with remarkable clarity. Each presented a confident vision of modern elegance, balancing restraint with strong identity. The collections felt aligned with the current desire for refinement, femininity, and enduring sophistication.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: Yes. There was a noticeable shift toward softer, more fluid silhouettes and a renewed sense of femininity. Designers seemed increasingly focused on ease, creating clothing that feels intuitive and comfortable without sacrificing polish. It reflects a broader desire for fashion that integrates seamlessly into everyday life while still feeling special.
The season in one word: Energetic
Jeffrey Kalinsky, founder and owner, Jeffrey Atlanta
Favorite collections: Tom Ford, Loewe, Celine, The Row, Miu Miu
Trend that will matter: What resonates with me always is color. I love color, and all of that fabulous color, especially at Loewe, really excited me. I don’t know that it was really so much on the runways, but I’ve seen throughout the New York, Milan and Paris [fashion weeks] lingerie-inspired pieces and lots of lace, and I feel like that’s something that I’m seeing now that I’m going to be super excited about in six months. I really think my customer’s going to love it. I loved all those lace pieces at Saint Laurent.
Trend that won’t: For the moment, I’ve seen too many shoulder pads.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: I try to make sure that I love everything that ends up in the store, and I try very hard to make sure that the price matches the perceived value. If you’re buying something that is $4,000 and looks $4,000, you’re going to sell it. If you’re buying something that looks $2,000 but it’s $5,000, you’re not a good businessperson. I’ve always tried to be a good businessperson.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: I’m not going to be carrying them this season, but the duo behind Matières Fécales are wildly, wildly talented. I went to see the collection and met them. I loved it, and I told them: “One day I’m going to be telling people I met you.”
Show that best met the moment: All the shows that I listed were really all strong for different reasons. The Loewe show really brought a smile to everyone’s face, which in this day and age we all need. We always need that, but maybe we need it a lot more right now.
The season in one word: Joyous. I know it’s not a joyous time in the world, and maybe it’s just because I’m so excited to be getting back into [the business], but I don’t remember a time of being so excited.
Loewe fall 2026
Dominique Maitre/WWD
Chloe King, director, fashion and lifestyle, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Dior, Tom Ford, Celine, Givenchy, Miu Miu
Trend that will matter: Unabashed glamor defined the week. Designers and ateliers flexed to perfect sharp tailoring and exceptional coat. An ‘80s meets ‘40s silhouette emerged with strong shoulders and a dropped waist. Peplums, lace and ruffles painted a romantic picture for fall, while plaid offered a bohemian, schoolish counterpoint. Squared-off toes added a little quirk to the shoe story, which remains focused on stilettos. Embossed croc and shearling trended in shoes and bags, and emotional accessories completed the polished look with aplomb.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: It was a very strong group of designers at the LVMH Prize, adding an optimistic energy to the week. Lii, Colleen Allen, Petra Fagerström and Kartik Research were particularly compelling.
Show that best met the moment: In a season of rich excess, the confident precision at the Tom Ford show was the ultimate seduction. Exceptionally cast, the models swirled and slunk in a way that authentically reflected how good they felt in the sleek and sublimely executed collection. It was magnetic to watch.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: With September’s designer debut mania in the rear view, the new creative directors delivered work that felt confident and compelling. Aesthetically, the pendulum has swung back toward exuberant, effort-forward dressing.
The season in one word: Extraordinaire
Eda Kuloglu, chief merchandising officer, Ounass
Favorite collections: Alaïa, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Balmain
Trend that will matter: Strong tailoring, powerful shoulders and leather will continue to matter, particularly pieces that feel powerful but wearable. Stirrup trousers were also a notable detail across many collections.
Trend that won’t: As for a pass, overly conceptual runway pieces that feel disconnected from how women actually dress.
Budgets up, down or flat: Flat for Paris. We invested more heavily in pre-collections this season, so our buys here were more focused and selective.
Where are you increasing spend or being more cautious: We are continuing to prioritize key strategic brands and hero categories that drive visibility and demand, while taking a more focused approach to new brands and more directional runway pieces.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: Strong tailoring.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: Nina Christen stood out this season as an emerging footwear designer to watch, and the opening of her first store on Rue de la Paix during Paris Fashion Week reflects the growing energy around footwear.
Show that best met the moment: Saint Laurent. It captured the confident mood of the season, balancing sharp tailoring with softer, fluid pieces in a way that felt both directional and commercially relevant.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: Yes, there was definitely more attitude this season. The collections felt sharper, bolder and more expressive.
The season in one word: Confidence
Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners, Jimmy’s New York and the Hamptons
Favorite collections: Chanel, Dior, Nina Ricci, Tom Ford
Trend that will matter: The skirt takes center stage: short, long, full and ruffled. Peplums return. Polished tailoring, corsetry and crystal gowns bring structure and glamour, often finished with opera gloves, feathers and boots. Feminine, confident dressing designed for women who want to stand out.
Trend that won’t: Anything dull, overly casual or lacking refinement. Pieces without tailoring, shape, or couture detail feel out of step with the season’s glamor. Our client looks for distinction and discovery, not basics widely available online or across department stores.
Budgets up, down or flat: Budgets are slightly up. The collections delivered glamour, couture-level craftsmanship, and strong eveningwear, giving confidence to invest in pieces that feel special and memorable for clients seeking standout fashion.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: Increasing spend in statement skirts, crystal evening gowns, and polished tailoring. Accessories like opera gloves and dramatic boots complete the look. More cautious with casual separates or overly commercial items lacking individuality.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: Eveningwear remains key: corseted gowns, long-sleeve crystal dresses and feather details. Skirts in multiple silhouettes are a major category. Tailored tuxedos and pant suits also feel important for refined power dressing.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: Starlit and Yara Shoemaker stood out for youthful glamour and strong silhouettes.
Show that best met the moment: Dior captured the season’s balance of glamour and refinement [with] sculpted tailoring, dramatic eveningwear and confident femininity.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: Yes. There’s a renewed embrace of glamour and femininity: boudoir dressing, lace, corsetry and sculpted tailoring. The mood is sexy but never vulgar, polished yet dramatic, with women dressing to make an entrance.
The season in one word: Refinement
Miu Miu fall 2026
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Simon Longland, director of buying – fashion, Harrods
Favorite collections: Chanel, Tom Ford, Dior, Givenchy and Hermès all delivered collections that felt both confident and deeply resolved.
Trend that will matter: Several themes emerged with real longevity. Lace appeared repeatedly, but notably not confined to eveningwear — it was reinterpreted for day, often layered or styled with tailoring. Tailoring itself was another defining element, executed with remarkable precision across multiple collections. Exceptional jackets in particular stood out as key pieces of the season. There was also an interesting dynamic between minimalism and maximalism, often coexisting within the same collection — giving customers a broader spectrum of expression. Some ideas, however, feel more directional and potentially harder to translate commercially, notably the exploration of latex and rubber, which appeared in several collections but remains a more niche proposition.
Exceptional jackets were undeniably the standout pieces. The breadth and quality on offer were remarkable — from Tom Ford to Saint Laurent, and from Dior to Chanel, as well as Celine and Alaïa. Across these collections, jackets became the defining piece — often the item that carried the strongest design statement.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: We will always focus on the strongest expressions within each collection — the pieces that feel the most special and memorable, the ones that stay with you long after the show. These vary significantly from house to house: it may be the sharpest-cut jacket from one brand, or an embellished dress from another. What matters is that these are the pieces that capture the essence of the collection and resonate emotionally with the customer.
Which show best met the moment: Two shows captured the spirit of the season particularly well. At Tom Ford, the atmosphere was intimate and almost voyeuristic — an exploration of seduction that felt both confident and controlled. Meanwhile, Dior delivered a beautifully uplifting show set in the Tuileries around a vast pool of waterlilies. Bathed in sunlight, it created a moment of optimism that resonated strongly with the audience.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: After several seasons marked by high-profile creative debuts, this felt like a moment of consolidation and confidence. Designers appear increasingly settled within their houses, and that clarity translated into collections that were both compelling and highly desirable. Overall, it was an overwhelmingly positive season in Paris, with a strong focus on product and enduring appeal.
It was an exceptional Paris season. Many designers delivered their very best work, presenting collections filled with pieces that inspire genuine desire. Whatever your personal aesthetic — minimal or maximal — this is a season where wish lists will likely grow longer than expected.
The season in one word: It is difficult to summarize a season of such diversity in a single word — variety and strength defined Paris this season.
Isla Lynch, buying director, Ssense
Favorite collections: Alaïa, Kiko Kostadinov, LVMH Prize semifinalist Colleen Allen, Comme des Garçons, Chanel
Trend that will matter: Slim-lined silhouettes, texture layering, lower waists, silk embroideries, gentle lace, old-world velvet, pashmina scarves, pony hair.
Trend that won’t: Leather jackets, faux fur, oversize silhouettes, quiet luxury, large duffel bags, barrel denim jeans, beige.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: Doubling down on our emerging designer category which are intrinsically “Ssense.” Brands like August Barron, Super Yaya and Paloma Wool have all really found their creative and commercial footings.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: So many incredible new designers on our radar this season [like] Rescha, Petra Fagerstrom, Kanika Agarwal.
Show that best met the moment: Chanel, baby.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: Yes, I feel like everyone has moved on from quiet luxury and is embracing the cues of the newer creative directions. There is a sense of joy in clothes and the industry again.
The season in one word: Fizzy
Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear, Selfridges
Favorite collections: Dior, Saint Laurent, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens
Trend that will matter: Drop waists were a big trend this season, paired with sculptural tailoring. This is a trend we think will stay.
Trend that won’t: We also saw a few latex and PVC looks. Maybe this is something that will not last this season.
Budgets up, down or flat: Looking at the shows, we are excited about the new season. The budgets reflect our confidence in our buys and the edits the customers want.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: We are increasing spends particularly around new brands this season to keep our shop floor fresh and exciting.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: Dresses are probably a category where we have more opportunity, alongside lighter, more transitional leather pieces.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: We are excited to work with Ruohan. The brand did a beautiful presentation in their newly opened Paris home on the Left Bank.
Show that best met the moment: The Dior show was very special and encapsulated the creativity and desirability of the brand, coupled with a very highly developed collection across all categories.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: This season Paris felt a little more fashion industry-driven than crazy spectacle-led, with the new creative directions at major houses landing confidently and the focus being back on customer and the press.
The season in one word: Captivating
Kiko Kostadinov fall 2026
Luca Tombolini/Courtesy of Kiko
Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear, Printemps
Favorite collections: Celine, Dior, Co, Chanel, Issey Miyake
Trend that will matter: The new emerging trend around Art Deco, Ottoman aesthetic, Victorian romantism is the one that will stay and continue to evolve in the coming years — in fashion, but also for design and lifestyle.
Trend that won’t: Athleisure, inspired from the ‘90s, is a pass. It will evolve more around body elevation or sublimation.
Budgets up, down or flat: Budgets are steady and redistributed differently with a new vision of fashion, to match the world’s evolving consumption.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: We want to spend more on new designers, as we are reopening our famous multibrand space called “L’Endroit” in May. We have always been a strong incubator, supporting new brands. We also feel that our customers are ready for more creativity.
Categories in which you will place a deeper buy: My team and I believe strongly in accessorization to enhance singularity. For a while, key pieces used to be a good sweater, the right jacket or perfect tailored pants. From now on, the wardrobe has been properly built thanks to quiet luxury. We want our clients to have more fun with bold jewelry, scarves, gloves, etc. Footwear is another category we want to bet on. Skirts are going to be the investment piece — all forms are valid.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: Co is definitely one of our favorites, presenting their first show this season — and it’s a winner. My biggest jewelry crush is Le Sundial, Silvia Dusci’s unique creations that bring a modern Art Deco touch. In the same spirit, I loved Pirrie Wright’s new shoe collaboration with Gia Borghini, a must-buy. Another great initiative is Turn, a young trio blending design and business with a smart capsule collection to complement their vintage curation — it’s the rendezvous of all the tastemakers.
Show that best met the moment: Celine is to me the perfect interpretation of the coming trend. It’s the exact vestiaire we want to wear to feel elegant, romantic and modern. The hats are strong and the jewelry is bold, completing sharpened silhouettes with a poetic attitude. Their collaboration with Mateo Garcia for the sound system was also the right statement in terms of culture.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: Definitely. We are moving toward something much more emotional, with silhouettes expressing a different feeling, less homogenization, more singularity. After the boredom of too much minimalism, and the 100th year anniversary of Art Deco, the shift will go to an incarnation of femininity at its core — more romantic, daring to express a new persona inspired from the past, with velvet, lace, tassels, turbans, long necklaces, gloves and minaudières.
The season in one word: Romantic
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Dior, Chanel, Celine, Tom Ford, Miu Miu
Trend that will matter: Opulence styled in a relaxed way will define the season. The Paris collections struck a balance between spectacle and clothes that felt genuinely desirable to wear. The lines outside of the Dior and Chanel stores said it all. Crystal embellished denim at Dior or Chanel’s classic boucle jackets worn with slipdresses captured that balance perfectly. There was glamour, but it felt effortless and modern.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: Fall is always a season where we go deeper into knits and outerwear. In our climate, pieces need to deliver both fashion and function. Acne Studios, Victoria Beckham and Sacai all showed standout outerwear this season. Accessories will also be a focus. Loewe, Celine and Miu Miu continue to deliver the shoes and bags that quickly become the “It” pieces customers respond to.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: We always keep a close eye on the finalists from the LVMH Prize. Designers like Lii, Colleen Allen and SSStein are brands we have been watching closely for a few seasons now.
Show that best met the moment: Jonathan Anderson at Dior kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a show that stayed with us for days. Every detail felt incredibly considered, and the collection set the tone for the week ahead.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: Many designers in Paris are now into their second or third collections at their houses. After the anticipation last season, this week felt more assured. We are leaving Paris feeling confident in the direction many of these brands are heading, and our buys will reflect that.
The season in one word: Wearable. Fashion felt new and directional, but never intimidating. There was a sense that the customer was back in focus this season.
Celine fall 2026
Courtesy of Celine
David Thielebeule, fashion director, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Chanel, Dior, Dris Van Noten, Tom Ford, Givenchy
Trend that will matter: Clothing with intention was a key message in Paris. Givenchy’s relaxed hourglass silhouettes; Tom Ford’s sleek, evening-leaning tailoring, and Victoria Beckham’s lean suits and fluid dresses all pointed to a more defined silhouette. Think cinched waists, controlled shoulders and pieces that move effortlessly from day to night. Over and over we saw designers giving customers a real reason to shop again. We saw less overworked runway theatrics. This was a season that favored real clothes with polish and discipline. The strongest collections prioritized clarity of silhouette and message over spectacle.
Where are you increasing spend or being more cautious: At Bloomingdale’s, the focus is on elevating the designer experience. As the newly reimagined fourth floor at 59th Street comes to life, the space is welcoming an exciting lineup of designer resources entirely new to the building. It reflects our customer’s growing appetite for exciting, directional fashion from the world’s best brands — both global heavy hitters and emerging talents — and signals a deeper investment in the category that will soon extend to additional doors.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: Someone on this trip remarked that in New York your coat is like your car: a status symbol, something you rely on daily and a place to carry everything. This season proved their point. Directional outerwear — especially shearling and faux fur — stood out across runways and showrooms. At Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner made a compelling case with richly worked jackets and textured coats, while Acne’s monumental shearling layers felt striking yet wearable. Courrèges offered sleek, futuristic coats that sharpened the silhouette. The message was clear: fall wardrobes begin with a great coat.
Show that best met the moment: Dior. The show felt perfectly calibrated for today: romantic but grounded, spectacular yet rooted in real clothes. The collection balanced house heritage with a new ease — Bar jackets softened, sculptural skirts and beautiful coats made for real life. Jonathan captured what Paris did best this season: delivering clothes with emotion and craft, but with a sense of reality that makes them feel relevant right now.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: The mood in Paris felt more grounded this season. The glamor was still there, but it was quieter and more assured.
The season in one word: Intentional
Ayami Yamanobe, womenswear buyer, Tomorrowland
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, The Row, Alaïa, Cecile Bahnsen, Barrie
Trend that will matter: True craftsmanship lives in deep reflection, not fleeting trends. I’m all about labels with a real soul and a clear philosophy clothes that actually mean something. If the production is shady or it’s just disposable hype, I’m out. For me, fall 2026 is about that “soul match” where the creator’s intent perfectly clicks with my inner truth. It’s pure, intentional luxury that resonates on a deeper level.
Budgets up, down or flat: I’m cutting back overall, but for the right brands, I’m ready to double down or stay steady.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: I’m all about one-of-a-kind pieces that deliver that “wow” factor through insane craftsmanship. I want to build deep ties with brands that offer a total, soulful vision. But honestly? If the technical skill or ethical backbone feels thin, I’m being extra cautious. It’s not just about the look — it’s about that “soul match” and a commitment to real quality that actually resonates. That’s where I’m putting my energy.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: I’m vibing with textile geeks and brands that stay rooted in their local community.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: Molli, Nour Hammour, Heirlome, Nami
Show that best met the moment: Dries Van Noten: It felt like a deep dive back to the basics really tuning into our inner memories and raw emotions.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: It feels like fall 2026 has shifted beyond just “back to basics” into a true “return to essence.” It’s a deeper dive into our inner memories and raw emotions. The real key now is deepening that trust tuning in to find the “soul match” that actually resonates with who we are.It’s about cutting through the noise to identify the authentic pieces that align with our inner truth. That’s the real luxury.
The season in one word: The quiet resonance of intent.
Eric Young, owner, Le Monde De SHC
Favorite collections: Tom Ford, Meta Campania Collective, Dries van Noten
Trend that will matter: The economic climate hasn’t improved much, and during fashion week we even saw new geopolitical conflicts emerge. In response, many womenswear collections seem to be moving in the opposite direction — seeking visibility and impact.
From the runway perspective, brands clearly want pieces that leave an immediate impression and generate conversation. As a result, we’re seeing a strong revival of bold, heavily stylized ’80s aesthetics.
Trend that won’t: What people call “quiet luxury” is quietly stepping away from the center of the stage. I don’t think it will disappear, but it will probably no longer dominate the fashion narrative the way it has in recent seasons.
Budgets up, down or flat: Budgets are mostly flat, and we remain cautious. The focus is less on expanding the number of brands and more on identifying collections that genuinely resonate with our clients.
Where are you increasing spend, or being more cautious? From a business perspective, LMDS is responding to the return of more expressive fashion while continuing to introduce our clients to different interpretations of refined luxury.
Personally, I think “quiet luxury” is somewhat of a misleading term. What interests me more are collections where design, tailoring and fabric innovation come together in a forward-looking way. In that sense, some brands associated with the trend — like The Row — can sometimes feel a bit too driven by online hype.
Categories with a deeper buy this season: LMDS has always enjoyed introducing bold design ideas to our clients. This season we’ll increase our focus on pieces with luxurious fabrics and strong artisanal detailing.
At the same time, I’ve noticed the rise of an intellectual American aesthetic, something that Celine has been leading recently. It feels commercially promising and is definitely a direction we’re interested in exploring further.
New discoveries or emerging brand buys: This season didn’t really feel like a breakout moment for new designers. Many major houses are still going through phases of reinvention, which makes it even harder for emerging brands.
That said, Meta Campania Collective stood out. It’s an independent brand with a distinctly American casual spirit — very restrained design but extremely refined fabric choices.
Another discovery is the Italian label Vautrait. The designer is quite young, yet the collection carries a strong sense of cultural depth rooted in northern Italy. It feels stylish but also very personal.
On a personal note, I’m also very fond of Matières Fécales.
Show that best met the moment: Gucci [during Milan Fashion Week]. When the first model stepped out of the dry ice smoke, it was immediately clear that Demna understands exactly how to orchestrate emotion in a fashion show.
Under his direction, Gucci seems ready to redefine what a flagship luxury house can be. I believe the brand has the potential to move beyond traditional luxury boundaries and become a platform that actively shapes contemporary urban culture. That’s something worth watching closely.
Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season: Overall the mood felt somewhat subdued.
I’m not someone who blindly admires Demna, but if more of the major houses that changed creative directors recently had his level of vision and willingness to reshape the system, the industry landscape could look much more exciting.
Instead, many of the new collections in Paris right now seem to rely heavily on marketing and PR to generate momentum.
The season in one word: Cautious
— With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang.
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