<\/p>\n
\n\tPARIS \u2014 Despite the current frenzy over the late Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy\u2019s 1990s wardrobe, minimalism has been maxed out \u2014 at least according to buyers following a Paris Fashion Week that moved away from \u201cquiet luxury\u201d toward emotional, expressive and more feminine silhouettes.<\/p>\n
\n\tTailoring was most frequently cited as a top trend, with designers emphasizing sculpted jackets, defined waists and leaner proportions after years of oversize shapes. Buyers also pointed to a renewed focus on sensuality, with lace, peplums, corsetry and body-skimming silhouettes appearing across collections.<\/p>\n
\n\tOuterwear emerged as the season\u2019s most important category, with retailers repeatedly citing coats and jackets as the anchors of their fall buys. Retailers said customers continue to view outerwear as an investment item capable of carrying an entire wardrobe, making it one of the safest places to spend in uncertain times.<\/p>\n
\n\tAccessories will make a statement, as scarves, brooches, gloves and statement jewelry are key sales drivers \u2014 now less an afterthought but central to the complete look \u2014 and notably available at lower entry price points.<\/p>\n
\n\tIf there\u2019s a race between the big houses, Chanel and Christian Dior are neck-and-neck, with the two emerging equally as buyers\u2019 favorite collections. (Not to mention the frenzy at Chanel stores during the week for pieces from Matthieu Blazy\u2019s first collection was all anyone could talk about.)<\/p>\n
\n\tThey were followed by Haider Ackermann\u2019s Tom Ford and Michael Rider\u2019s Celine, suggesting that after several creative director shuffles, the chess board has stopped shuffling, and designers are beginning to settle into their roles and deliver more cohesive visions.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tMati\u00e8res F\u00e9cales fall 2026<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tFilippo Fior\/Courtesy of Mati\u00e8r<\/p>\n
\n\tBut Mati\u00e8res F\u00e9cales emerged as a bit of a dark horse, as several buyers described the show as \u201ccinematic\u201d and the designers \u201cwildly talented.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tSeveral retailers also noted that the season felt notably product-driven, with designers presenting wardrobes grounded in wearability and commercial appeal rather than directional or divisive.<\/p>\n
\n\tDespite a backdrop of geopolitical tensions and economic uncertainty \u2014 only heightened by the outbreak of the attack on Iran on the eve of the shows \u2014 the mood among buyers during the season was notably upbeat with retailers calling it \u201cenergetic,\u201d \u201cfizzy,\u201d \u201cjoyous\u201d and even \u201cextraordinarie.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tThe positive sentiment stood in contrast to broader global anxieties, which were largely absent from most buyers\u2019 assessments. One of the few to acknowledge the external climate was Eric Young, owner of Shanghai-based Le Monde De SHC, who framed the season as \u201ccautious.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cThe economic climate hasn\u2019t improved much, and during fashion week we even saw new geopolitical conflicts emerge. In response, many womenswear collections seem to be moving in the opposite direction \u2014 seeking visibility and impact,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets reflected cautious optimism. Many retailers said spending was either steady or slightly higher this season, though most emphasized a more focused buying strategy, concentrating on investment pieces \u2014 particularly outerwear and accessories \u2014 that can elevate an outfit but are also solid commercial plays.<\/p>\n
\n\tHere are buyers\u2019 reactions to the fall 2026 Paris season:<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tDior fall 2026<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGiovanni Giannoni\/WWD<\/p>\n
\t\tElodie Abrial, sales director, Le Bon March\u00e9 Rive Gauche and Samaritaine Paris\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Dior, Celine, Givenchy, Chanel, Chlo\u00e9<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter:\u00a0Tailoring, which we\u2019ve seen for a few seasons, is still very present and will go on. Quiet luxury is evolving with more femininity, through details: soft leather, cuts and a bit more of sexiness.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets up, down or flat: Budgets are globally up, depending on brands\u2019 performances and collections.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy:\u00a0Coats are definitely key pieces for any winter season, but for fall 2026 this piece is unmissable. More globally,\u00a0we will bet on\u00a0wearable\u00a0pieces with an added value.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Dior \u2014 when the planets align through a beautiful and most poetic setup under an unexpected sun of March, and above all [it was] a collection that combined all the heritage of the maison in a feminine and very desirable modernity. The jackets \u2014 especially The Bar jacket and its softened interpretation \u2014 the embellished denims, the coats and the tulle and silk skirts and dresses that were close to couture [were memorable].<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any vibe shift this season: The quiet luxury that could be a bit \u201cflat\u201d goes a little in favor of a more elevated and feminine version with more relief. And a lot of black, not the sad color people might have in mind, but a powerfully elegant and vibrant one, combined with touches of color.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Elegant sensuality, restrained but assertive.<\/p>\n
\t\tKate Benson, chief merchant, Harvey Nichols\t<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: All black where texture and fabric take center stage.\u00a0Shearlings, [faux] furs and leather giving volume and drama to the looks.\u00a0Velvet \u2014 creating sophisticated evening looks. Folklore trend seen at Chloe referencing ditzy floral prints, plaids, checks, corduroy and embellishment.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets\u00a0up, down or flat: We are in a growth phase and building our budgets.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: Shoes are one of our fastest-growing categories. With the buzz around Chanel styles, they\u2019re becoming a key part of the outfit and a way for customers to express their style. We\u2019re also investing in high-value shearling and leather pieces where customers can clearly see the value.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy: The idea of \u201calternative eveningwear\u201d that doesn\u2019t feel traditional but is modern, cool and sophisticated.\u00a0Standout brands for this will be The Row, Khaite, Margiela, Issey Miyake and Dries Van Noten.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: Building on her success over the last few seasons, we are excited about Colleen Allen and will be adding to our assortment for fall 2026.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Dior was joyful, light and full of beauty.\u00a0A redefinition of luxury with a clear vision. It was so successful in building a world that the customer will want to be part of.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel a \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: There has been a marked move to femininity, whatever that interpretation of it may be.\u00a0Gucci to Givenchy to Chanel to Chloe \u2014 very different takes on femininity but it remains central to the thinking.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word:\u00a0Mixed.<\/p>\n
\t\tAndrea Bonecco, head of buying\u00a0womenswear, menswear, and children, La Rinascente\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Tom Ford, Dior, Chanel, YSL, Miu Miu<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Black garments, tailored suits with flared trousers, dresses with drapes, sheaths and lace. Longuette skirts paired with narrow-waisted jackets. Many fur options or fur details.<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: The time for down jackets or nylon proposals is gone.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets up, down or flat: Our overall seasonal budget is increasing. However, within our own buying strategy, we have slightly reduced the percentage allocated to fashion show pieces.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: We invest in the categories that drive our business: shoes and accessible luxury ready-to-wear.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories in which you will place a deeper buy this season: We are expanding our shoes offer, while in RTW we are focusing on accessible and timeless luxury pieces.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: I watched very carefully the debut of Balmain\u2019s new designer.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhat show best met the moment: Tom Ford.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: Yes. Fewer shows that focus on spectacularity and a greater focus on the product itself.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Exciting and vibrant.<\/p>\n
\t\tBeth Buccini, owner and founder, Kirna Zab\u00eate\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Gabriela Hearst, Ala\u00efa, Saint Laurent, Chlo\u00e9, Chanel \u2014 because, really, that\u2019s all anyone is talking about and where everyone is shopping. The frenzy is real.<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter:\u00a0Bold colors \u2014 yellow, red and purple \u2014 are everywhere. Usually, with the fall runway, we see a more muted palette, which is still around, but the runway pops of color we saw in Paris were fun.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: The great thing about this season is that there is something for everyone in Paris. I didn\u2019t like some of the prints we saw, but so many designers marched to their own beat this season, which was wonderful to see.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets up, down or flat: Budgets are up.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend, or being more cautious:\u00a0Both! We are increasing our spend with designers where we already have great success. We\u2019re doubling down on what works and going into the runway with a refined, focused attention.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: Outerwear. We saw a significant increase in fall 2025, a category with room for growth. Clients are willing to spend on coats, and we had great success with\u00a0Nour Hammour, Utzon and Loulou de Saison. We sold them to the piece last season, so we\u2019re deepening our buy here.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys:\u00a0We actually had a moment to see some American designers in Paris, and we loved Fforme and Zankov.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Besides Chanel, we loved Gabriela Hearst and thought it was her strongest collection yet. The combination of the beautiful fabrics and intricate details in the gorgeous Petit Palais was truly magical.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season:\u00a0There was more joy this season. The weather helped for sure, with gorgeous sunny days, but there was a sense of ease and fun that had been missing. The world is intense right now, and people want a distraction. Desirability is the most important thing designers can provide, and we felt that this season.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Joyful<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tBackstage at Chlo\u00e9 fall 2026.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tAdam Katz Sinding\/WWD<\/p>\n
\t\tBrigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer, Net-a-porter\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Chlo\u00e9, Ala\u00efa, The Row, Saint Laurent<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Timeless silhouettes, that reference an archive or a past trend like the \u201890s, but that feel modern.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: The Row<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season? There has been a real sense of excitement this Paris, that comes with several creative directors showing their sophomore collections. The anticipation of how they have developed their respective visions for historic houses has kept us all talking.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Eclectic<\/p>\n
\t\tVictoria Dartigues, buying director for women rtw and accessories, Galeries Lafayette\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, Celine, Courr\u00e8ges<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter:\u00a0This season marks the resurgence of a sexy and assertive femininity. A sculpted silhouette of a power woman, whose determination is expressed through an incredibly chic and sophisticated allure. The waist is rigorously defined by Basque jackets that accentuate hips, while the line is stretched to infinity by sleek fuseau trousers paired with sharp pointed-toe pumps or high-knee boots. This confident stride unfolds within a world of pure luxury, where black-tie looks end almost all the catwalks.<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: Quiet luxury and tone look.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: To invest in this season\u2019s sexy allure, one must prioritize sleek fuseau trousers paired with high-knee boots, while faux fur makes a significant impact either as statement coats or refined accents on collars. Leather jackets remain timeless essentials with year-round appeal that continue to dominate the runways, alongside a rising presence of the contemporary bomber jacket. There\u2019s the striking return of tailoring, particularly the tuxedo suit showcased either as a powerful total look or more casually styled.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys:\u00a0Duran Lantink\u2019s second show for Jean Paul Gaultier completed a season where high-fashion drama meets a wearable, assertive reality. Haider Ackermann\u2019s female silhouette [at Tom Ford] has evolved remarkably this season, seducing the industry with a sophisticated d\u00e9gaine that resonates deeply with many women. Antonin Tron\u2019s debut at Balmain offered a softer, more fluid silhouette \u2014 confident and sexy, yet with a newfound sense of ease. It felt like a genuine wardrobe for the modern woman, rather than an Oscar red-carpet moment.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment:\u00a0Pieter Mulier\u2019s latest show for Ala\u00efa stood as a poignant highlight, offering a conclusion that remained deeply faithful to the house\u2019s original spirit.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season:\u00a0Following a major designer reshuffle in September, this season feels like a definitive \u201csecond act,\u201d where new creative directions are settling in and sharpening their identities: Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, with more knitwear and low waists echoing the Gabrielle era, and Jonathan Anderson at Dior, with a perfect mix between his personal aesthetic \u2014 a relaxed attitude \u2014 and Dior codes. Under the Parisian sun, the sophisticated yet grounded looks revealed a highly commercial season rooted in real wardrobes.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Sophisticated<\/p>\n
\t\tLaura Darmon, buyer director and business development, ENG China\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Tom Ford, Mati\u00e8res F\u00e9cales, Saint Laurent, ERD, Jean Paul Gaultier<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: A pass on oversize fits.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets up, down or flat: Up<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: I\u2019m being more cautious with heavy knitwear, as the winter is quite short, and increasing trousers and leather goods.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: Yes \u2014 leather, shoes and accessories.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: Mati\u00e8res F\u00e9cales, which we introduced last season, is looking particularly impressive this season.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Mati\u00e8res F\u00e9cales truly spoiled us. The show unfolded in three acts, lasted an hour and felt cinematically like a [Stanley] Kubrick movie. The casting was on point, the clothes looked incredible \u2014 nothing more to say\u2026a real show.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: I\u2019d say we\u2019re back to leather, slim fits and refined tailoring. It feels refreshing, finally.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Organic<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tTom Ford fall 2026<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy of Tom Ford<\/p>\n
\t\tRickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections:\u00a0Dior, Celine, Tom Ford, Chanel, Ala\u00efa\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Leaner silhouettes, tailoring, bold color, innovative neck details and scarves, texture, peplum shapes and statement outerwear.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: Nordstrom has long been a destination for shoes, and Paris reinforced the strength and relevance of the category this season. From Celine\u2019s covetable boots and kitten heels to Dior\u2019s polka?dot, old?world heels and Saint Laurent stilettos, collections pointed to a long, lean silhouette. The excitement around Matthieu Blazy\u2019s debut at Chanel was palpable, with a wave of new shoe ideas that felt fresh and directional.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: Two discoveries that stood out were LVMH Prize semifinalists Act N.1 and Julie Kegels.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: A remix of Lady Gaga\u2019s \u201cJust Dance\u201d set the tone at Chanel, underscoring the collection\u2019s sense of joy and movement. Haider Ackermann\u2019s Tom Ford offered another impactful moment, standing out for its intimacy and technical skill.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: There was a noticeable shift toward opulence, with collections feeling more dressed and feminine. From the rich fabrics and peplum shapes at Dior to the iridescent tweeds at Chanel, the mood balanced decor with real?world sensibility.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Optimistic<\/p>\n
\t\tLinda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections:\u00a0Chanel, Dior, Tom Ford, Ala\u00efa, Loewe<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: A coat wardrobe: blouson, clean topcoat and drama shearling. Striking black tailored wardrobe essentials. A polished, well-accessorized appearance.\u00a0Classic feminine signifiers: pointy stilettos, longer top-handle bags, slipdresses and\u00a0body-skimming dressing celebrating the female form.\u00a0Pops of leopard and the French blue shirt with big cuffs. Velvet, leather, croc and texture.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or new brand buys: Mati\u00e8res F\u00e9cales<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Chanel\u00a0and\u00a0Dior\u00a0more than met the moment, crystallizing the promise and reward of bold,\u00a0directional changes at big houses with so much at stake.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: There was a big shift toward glamour and unapologetic beauty. Couture level materials and constructions leaned into further differentiating \u201cluxury.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Another level <\/p>\n
\t\tKohei Hashimoto, Restyle buyer, Isetan Shinjuku\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Dior, Chanel, Dries Van Noten, Mame Kurogouchi, Cecilie Bahnsen<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Everyday ease, lightness and movement combined with warm craftsmanship and versatility [is here to stay].<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: We will skip heavy, overly constructed and aggressive trends that limit wearability.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets up, down or flat: Our overall budget is flat, but we plan to take a slightly bolder approach to outerwear this season.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: We are expanding versatile pieces for everyday styling, while being more cautious with items tied to specific occasions.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: Versatile yet expressive outerwear \u2014 especially coats that capture the iconic DNA of a brand \u2014 along with accessories that feel like personal talismans.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: Pauline Dujancourt<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Cecilie Bahnsen \u2014 the show felt wearable, optimistic and very human.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: In a different way from the COVID[-19] era, this season reaffirmed the value of everyday wearability and versatility.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one phrase: Filled with quiet optimism \u2014 like a wish for people around the world to smile and skip together under a gentle sun.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tCecilie Bahnsen fall 2026<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tUmberto Fratini\/Courtesy of Ceci<\/p>\n
\t\tApril Hennig, president, Moda Operandi\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Dior, The Row, Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Dries Van Noten<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: The overarching trend is moving toward a powerful, confident and self-assured aesthetic. Key elements include the \u201cdeceptive simplicity\u201d of close-to-the-body silhouettes at The Row and Ala\u00efa, alongside sharp tailoring from Tom Ford and Givenchy, and the full leather looks at Balenciaga and Gabriela Hearst. A return to ornate fabrics and details seen at Dior and Dries Van Noten add a more personal touch.<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: We are moving on from the \u201cquiet luxury\u201d of seasons past.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets up, down or flat: We are operating with a macro-aware yet client-focused approach. Given the strength of the Paris collections and positive momentum in business, budgets are up.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: We are focusing on premium luxury brands that have generated heightened desirability with elevated offerings. Our client has a strong appetite for uniquely special pieces, and we will be leaning into the robust offering of innovative and precious fabrications and embroideries, and complete-the-look accessories. We are being cautious with product that is either overly conceptual or too basic.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: We are expanding separates categories for both day and evening, focusing on sharp and feminine tailoring, funnel neck jackets, total leather looks, croc embossed everything, ornate embroidery, plaid daywear, stirrups and tights. We are also getting behind styling accessories, which are no longer an afterthought but an integral part of the look \u2014 silk scarves, brooches, gloves, long necklaces and headwear.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: We continue to champion emerging talents in Paris like Burc Akyol and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt.\u00a0Paris is the international fashion capital, allowing us to connect with brands from around the world including Le Sundial, Petra Fagerstrom, Goyagoma and Kartik Research.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Celine, The Row and Gabriela Hearst led the pack with aspirational, beautifully crafted pieces that still carried the right dose of personality \u2014 exactly how sophisticated women want to dress every day.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: Following anticipation around last season\u2019s many creative director debuts, this week in Paris brought a sense of real clarity, with designers showcasing more confident expressions of their visions. Simultaneously, as spring product arrives in-store, we are seeing real-time customer enthusiasm. It is clear that this new class is generating excitement in the market.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Intention<\/p>\n
\t\tTiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Chlo\u00e9, Chanel, Magda Butrym, Saint Laurent, Celine<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Sophisticated ease will define the season ahead: a wardrobe that feels relaxed and comfortable while remaining impeccably polished and quietly impactful. Texture plays a key role, with shearling and faux-fur details appearing across outerwear and accessories, adding richness without excess.<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: Overly sporty utility feels less relevant now, as silhouettes sharpen and proportions evolve from oversize toward leaner, more sculpted lines, often rendered in ultra-supple leather.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend or being more cautious: We are meaningfully increasing spend in cocktail and eveningwear, as well as in statement outerwear, where the runway offered exceptional depth and creativity. High heels continue to perform extremely well, prompting us to expand our selection of elevated evening shoes and occasion styles. Conversely, we are being more selective with ballerinas and sneakers, shifting focus toward refined flats such as loafers for everyday dressing.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: Ready-to-wear remains a key growth engine for us, particularly pieces with strong silhouette and distinctive fabrication. Shoes are another category where we see continued momentum and opportunity to deepen the assortment. Together, these segments allow us to build compelling, fashion-forward wardrobes for our customers.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: We are still finalizing the emerging brand mix for the season. The focus remains on designers who bring a clear point of view and craftsmanship that resonates with a sophisticated luxury audience. We prefer to introduce new names thoughtfully, ensuring they complement the broader brand landscape.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Chanel, Celine, Saint Laurent, The Row and Chlo\u00e9 captured the spirit of the moment with remarkable clarity. Each presented a confident vision of modern elegance, balancing restraint with strong identity. The collections felt aligned with the current desire for refinement, femininity, and enduring sophistication.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: Yes. There was a noticeable shift toward softer, more fluid silhouettes and a renewed sense of femininity. Designers seemed increasingly focused on ease, creating clothing that feels intuitive and comfortable without sacrificing polish. It reflects a broader desire for fashion that integrates seamlessly into everyday life while still feeling special.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word:\u00a0Energetic<\/p>\n
\t\tJeffrey Kalinsky, founder and owner, Jeffrey Atlanta \t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Tom Ford, Loewe, Celine, The Row, Miu Miu<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: What resonates with me always is color. I love color, and all of that fabulous color, especially at Loewe, really excited me. I don\u2019t know that it was really so much on the runways, but I\u2019ve seen throughout the New York, Milan and Paris [fashion weeks] lingerie-inspired pieces and lots of lace, and I feel like that\u2019s something that I\u2019m seeing now that I\u2019m going to be super excited about in six months. I really think my customer\u2019s going to love it. I loved all those lace pieces at Saint Laurent.<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: For the moment, I\u2019ve seen too many shoulder pads.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: I try to make sure that I love everything that ends up in the store, and I try very hard to make sure that the price matches the perceived value. If you\u2019re buying something that is $4,000 and looks $4,000, you\u2019re going to sell it. If you\u2019re buying something that looks $2,000 but it\u2019s $5,000, you\u2019re not a good businessperson. I\u2019ve always tried to be a good businessperson.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: I\u2019m not going to be carrying them this season, but the duo behind Mati\u00e8res F\u00e9cales are wildly, wildly talented. I went to see the collection and met them. I loved it, and I told them: \u201cOne day I\u2019m going to be telling people I met you.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: All the shows that I listed were really all strong for different reasons. The Loewe show really brought a smile to everyone\u2019s face, which in this day and age we all need. We always need that, but maybe we need it a lot more right now.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Joyous. I know it\u2019s not a joyous time in the world, and maybe it\u2019s just because I\u2019m so excited to be getting back into [the business], but I don\u2019t remember a time of being so excited.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tLoewe fall 2026<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tDominique Maitre\/WWD<\/p>\n
\t\tChloe King, director, fashion and lifestyle, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Dior, Tom Ford, Celine, Givenchy, Miu Miu<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Unabashed glamor defined the week.\u00a0Designers and ateliers flexed to perfect sharp tailoring and exceptional coat.\u00a0An \u201880s meets \u201840s silhouette emerged with strong shoulders and a dropped waist.\u00a0Peplums, lace and ruffles painted a romantic picture for fall, while plaid offered a bohemian, schoolish counterpoint.\u00a0Squared-off toes added a little quirk to the shoe story, which remains focused on stilettos. Embossed croc and shearling trended in shoes and bags, and emotional accessories completed the polished look with aplomb.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: It was a very strong group of designers at the LVMH Prize, adding an optimistic energy to the week. Lii, Colleen Allen, Petra Fagerstr\u00f6m and Kartik Research were particularly compelling.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met\u00a0the moment: In a season of rich excess, the confident precision at the Tom Ford show was the ultimate seduction. Exceptionally cast, the models swirled and slunk in a way that authentically reflected how good they felt in the sleek and sublimely executed collection. It was magnetic to watch.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: With September\u2019s designer debut mania in the rear view, the new creative directors delivered work that felt confident and compelling. Aesthetically, the pendulum has swung back toward exuberant, effort-forward dressing.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Extraordinaire<\/p>\n
\t\tEda Kuloglu, chief merchandising officer, Ounass\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections:\u00a0Ala\u00efa, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Balmain<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Strong tailoring, powerful shoulders and leather will continue to matter, particularly pieces that feel powerful but wearable. Stirrup trousers were also a notable detail across many collections.<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: As for a pass, overly conceptual runway pieces that feel disconnected from how women actually dress.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets\u00a0up, down or flat:\u00a0Flat for Paris. We invested more heavily in pre-collections this season, so our buys here were more focused and selective.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend or being more cautious:\u00a0We are continuing to prioritize key strategic brands and hero categories that drive visibility and demand, while taking a more focused approach to new brands and more directional runway pieces.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: Strong tailoring.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys:\u00a0Nina Christen stood out this season as an emerging footwear designer to watch, and the opening of her first store on Rue de la Paix during Paris Fashion Week reflects the growing energy around footwear.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment:\u00a0Saint Laurent. It captured the confident mood of the season, balancing sharp tailoring with softer, fluid pieces in a way that felt both directional and commercially relevant.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season:\u00a0Yes, there was definitely more attitude this season. The collections felt sharper, bolder and more expressive.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Confidence<\/p>\n
\t\tElizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners, Jimmy\u2019s New York and the Hamptons\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Chanel, Dior, Nina Ricci, Tom Ford<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: The skirt takes center stage: short, long, full and ruffled. Peplums return. Polished tailoring, corsetry and crystal gowns bring structure and glamour, often finished with opera gloves, feathers and boots. Feminine, confident dressing designed for women who want to stand out.<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: Anything dull, overly casual or lacking refinement. Pieces without tailoring, shape, or couture detail feel out of step with the season\u2019s glamor. Our client looks for distinction and discovery, not basics widely available online or across department stores.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets up, down or flat: Budgets are slightly up. The collections delivered glamour, couture-level craftsmanship, and strong eveningwear, giving confidence to invest in pieces that feel special and memorable for clients seeking standout fashion.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: Increasing spend in statement skirts, crystal evening gowns, and polished tailoring. Accessories like opera gloves and dramatic boots complete the look. More cautious with casual separates or overly commercial items lacking individuality.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: Eveningwear remains key: corseted gowns, long-sleeve crystal dresses and feather details. Skirts in multiple silhouettes are a major category. Tailored tuxedos and pant suits also feel important for refined power dressing.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: Starlit and Yara Shoemaker stood out for youthful glamour and strong silhouettes.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Dior captured the season\u2019s balance of glamour and refinement [with] sculpted tailoring, dramatic eveningwear and confident femininity.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: Yes. There\u2019s a renewed embrace of glamour and femininity: boudoir dressing, lace, corsetry and sculpted tailoring. The mood is sexy but never vulgar, polished yet dramatic, with women dressing to make an entrance.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Refinement<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tMiu Miu fall 2026<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tGiovanni Giannoni\/WWD<\/p>\n
\t\tSimon Longland, director of buying \u2013 fashion, Harrods\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Chanel, Tom Ford, Dior, Givenchy and Herm\u00e8s all delivered collections that felt both confident and deeply resolved.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Several themes emerged with real longevity. Lace appeared repeatedly, but notably not confined to eveningwear \u2014 it was reinterpreted for day, often layered or styled with tailoring. Tailoring itself was another defining element, executed with remarkable precision across multiple collections. Exceptional jackets in particular stood out as key pieces of the season. There was also an interesting dynamic between minimalism and maximalism, often coexisting within the\u00a0same collection \u2014 giving customers a broader spectrum of expression. Some ideas, however, feel more directional and potentially harder to translate commercially, notably the exploration of latex and rubber, which appeared in several collections but remains a more niche proposition.<\/p>\n
\n\tExceptional jackets were undeniably the standout pieces. The breadth and quality on offer were remarkable \u2014 from Tom Ford to Saint Laurent, and from Dior to Chanel, as well as Celine and Ala\u00efa. Across these collections, jackets became the defining piece \u2014 often the item that carried the strongest design statement.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: We will always focus on the strongest expressions within each collection \u2014 the pieces that feel the most special and memorable, the ones that stay with you long after the show. These vary significantly from house to house: it may be the sharpest-cut jacket from one brand, or an embellished dress from another. What matters is that these are the pieces that capture the essence of the collection and resonate emotionally with the customer.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhich show best met the moment: Two shows captured the spirit of the season particularly well. At Tom Ford, the atmosphere was intimate and almost voyeuristic \u2014 an exploration of seduction that felt both confident and controlled. Meanwhile, Dior delivered a beautifully uplifting show set in the Tuileries around a vast pool of waterlilies. Bathed in sunlight, it created a moment of optimism that resonated strongly with the audience.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: After several seasons marked by high-profile creative debuts, this felt like a moment of consolidation and confidence. Designers appear increasingly settled within their houses, and that clarity translated into collections that were both compelling and highly desirable. Overall, it was an overwhelmingly positive season in Paris, with a strong focus on product and enduring appeal.<\/p>\n
\n\tIt was an exceptional Paris season. Many designers delivered their very best work, presenting collections filled with pieces that inspire genuine desire. Whatever your personal aesthetic \u2014 minimal or maximal \u2014 this is a season where wish lists will likely grow longer than expected.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: It is difficult to summarize a season of such diversity in a single word \u2014 variety and strength defined Paris this season.<\/p>\n
\t\tIsla Lynch, buying director, Ssense\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Ala\u00efa, Kiko Kostadinov, LVMH Prize semifinalist Colleen Allen, Comme des Gar\u00e7ons, Chanel<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Slim-lined silhouettes, texture layering, lower waists, silk embroideries, gentle lace, old-world velvet, pashmina scarves, pony hair.<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: Leather jackets, faux fur, oversize silhouettes, quiet luxury, large duffel bags, barrel denim jeans, beige.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: Doubling down on our emerging designer category which are intrinsically \u201cSsense.\u201d Brands like August Barron, Super Yaya and Paloma Wool have all really found their creative and commercial footings.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: So many incredible new designers on our radar this season [like] Rescha, Petra Fagerstrom, Kanika Agarwal.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Chanel, baby.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: Yes, I feel like everyone has moved on from quiet luxury and is embracing the cues of the newer creative directions. There is a sense of joy in clothes and the industry again.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Fizzy<\/p>\n
\t\tBosse Myhr,\u00a0director of womenswear and menswear, Selfridges\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Dior, Saint Laurent, Comme des Gar\u00e7ons, Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Drop waists were a big trend this season, paired with sculptural tailoring. This is a trend we think will stay.<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: We also saw a few latex and PVC looks. Maybe this is something that will not last this season.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets\u00a0up, down or flat: Looking at the shows, we are excited about the new season. The budgets reflect our confidence in our buys and the edits the customers want.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: We are increasing spends particularly around new brands this season to keep our shop floor fresh and exciting.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: Dresses are probably a category where we have more opportunity, alongside lighter, more transitional leather pieces.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: We are excited to work with Ruohan. The brand did a beautiful presentation in their newly opened Paris home on the Left Bank.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: The Dior show was very special and encapsulated the creativity and desirability of the brand, coupled with a very highly developed collection across all categories.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: This season Paris felt a little more fashion industry-driven than crazy spectacle-led, with the new creative directions at major houses landing confidently and the focus being back on customer and the press.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word:\u00a0Captivating<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tKiko Kostadinov fall 2026<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tLuca Tombolini\/Courtesy of Kiko<\/p>\n
\t\tMaud\u00a0Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear, Printemps\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Celine, Dior, Co, Chanel, Issey Miyake<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter:\u00a0The new emerging trend around Art Deco, Ottoman aesthetic, Victorian romantism is the one that will stay and continue to evolve in the coming years \u2014 in fashion, but also for design and lifestyle.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: Athleisure, inspired from the \u201890s, is a pass. It will evolve more around body elevation or sublimation.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets up, down or flat: Budgets are steady and redistributed differently with a new vision of fashion, to match the world\u2019s evolving consumption.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend, or being more cautious:\u00a0We want to spend more on new designers, as we are reopening our famous multibrand space called \u201cL\u2019Endroit\u201d in May. We have always been a strong incubator, supporting new brands. We also feel that our customers are ready for more creativity.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories in which you will place a deeper buy: My team and I believe strongly in accessorization to enhance singularity. For a while, key pieces used to be a good sweater, the right jacket or perfect tailored pants. From now on, the wardrobe has been properly built thanks to quiet luxury. We want our clients to have more fun with bold jewelry, scarves, gloves, etc. Footwear is another category we want to bet on. Skirts are going to be the investment piece \u2014 all forms are valid.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys:\u00a0Co is definitely one of our favorites, presenting their first show this season \u2014 and it\u2019s a winner. My biggest jewelry crush is Le Sundial, Silvia Dusci\u2019s unique creations that bring a modern Art Deco touch. In the same spirit, I loved Pirrie Wright\u2019s new shoe collaboration with Gia Borghini, a must-buy. Another great initiative is Turn, a young trio blending design and business with a smart capsule collection to complement their vintage curation \u2014 it\u2019s the rendezvous of all the tastemakers.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Celine is to me the perfect interpretation of the coming trend. It\u2019s the exact vestiaire we want to wear to feel elegant, romantic and modern. The hats are strong and the jewelry is bold, completing sharpened silhouettes with a poetic attitude. Their collaboration with Mateo Garcia for the sound system was also the right statement in terms of culture.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season:\u00a0Definitely. We are moving toward something much more emotional, with silhouettes expressing a different feeling, less homogenization, more singularity. After the boredom of too much minimalism, and the 100th year anniversary of Art Deco, the shift will go to an incarnation of femininity at its core \u2014 more romantic, daring to express a new persona inspired from the past, with velvet, lace, tassels, turbans, long necklaces, gloves and minaudi\u00e8res.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Romantic<\/p>\n
\t\tJoseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Dior, Chanel, Celine, Tom Ford, Miu Miu<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Opulence styled in a relaxed way will define the season. The Paris collections struck a balance between spectacle and clothes that felt genuinely desirable to wear. The lines outside of the Dior and Chanel stores said it all. Crystal embellished denim at Dior or Chanel\u2019s classic boucle jackets worn with slipdresses captured that balance perfectly. There was glamour, but it felt effortless and modern.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: Fall is always a season where we go deeper into knits and outerwear. In our climate, pieces need to deliver both fashion and function. Acne Studios, Victoria Beckham and Sacai all showed standout outerwear this season. Accessories will also be a focus. Loewe, Celine and Miu Miu continue to deliver the shoes and bags that quickly become the \u201cIt\u201d pieces customers respond to.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: We always keep a close eye on the finalists from the LVMH Prize. Designers like Lii, Colleen Allen and SSStein are brands we have been watching closely for a few seasons now.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Jonathan Anderson at Dior kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a show that stayed with us for days. Every detail felt incredibly considered, and the collection set the tone for the week ahead.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: Many designers in Paris are now into their second or third collections at their houses. After the anticipation last season, this week felt more assured. We are leaving Paris feeling confident in the direction many of these brands are heading, and our buys will reflect that.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Wearable. Fashion felt new and directional, but never intimidating. There was a sense that the customer was back in focus this season.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tCeline fall 2026<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy of Celine<\/p>\n
\t\tDavid Thielebeule, fashion director, Bloomingdale\u2019s\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Chanel, Dior, Dris Van Noten, Tom Ford, Givenchy<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: Clothing with intention was a key message in Paris. Givenchy\u2019s relaxed hourglass silhouettes; Tom Ford\u2019s sleek, evening-leaning tailoring, and Victoria Beckham\u2019s lean suits and fluid dresses all pointed to a more defined silhouette. Think cinched waists, controlled shoulders and pieces that move effortlessly from day to night. Over and over we saw designers giving customers a real reason to shop again. We saw less overworked runway theatrics. This was a season that favored real clothes with polish and discipline. The strongest collections prioritized clarity of silhouette and message over spectacle.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend or being more cautious: At Bloomingdale\u2019s, the focus is on elevating the designer experience. As the newly reimagined fourth floor at 59th Street comes to life, the space is welcoming an exciting lineup of designer resources entirely new to the building. It reflects our customer\u2019s growing appetite for exciting, directional fashion from the world\u2019s best brands \u2014 both global heavy hitters and emerging talents \u2014 and signals a deeper investment in the category that will soon extend to additional doors.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: Someone on this trip remarked that in New York your coat is like your car: a status symbol, something you rely on daily and a place to carry everything. This season proved their point. Directional outerwear \u2014 especially shearling and faux fur \u2014 stood out across runways and showrooms. At Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner made a compelling case with richly worked jackets and textured coats, while Acne\u2019s monumental shearling layers felt striking yet wearable. Courr\u00e8ges offered sleek, futuristic coats that sharpened the silhouette. The message was clear: fall wardrobes begin with a great coat.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Dior. The show felt perfectly calibrated for today: romantic but grounded, spectacular yet rooted in real clothes. The collection balanced house heritage with a new ease \u2014 Bar jackets softened, sculptural skirts and beautiful coats made for real life. Jonathan captured what Paris did best this season: delivering clothes with emotion and craft, but with a sense of reality that makes them feel relevant right now.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: The mood in Paris felt more grounded this season. The glamor was still there, but it was quieter and more assured.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Intentional<\/p>\n
\t\tAyami Yamanobe, womenswear buyer, Tomorrowland\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Dries Van Noten, The Row, Ala\u00efa, Cecile Bahnsen, Barrie<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: True craftsmanship lives in deep reflection, not fleeting trends. I\u2019m all about labels with a real soul and a clear philosophy clothes that actually mean something. If the production is shady or it\u2019s just disposable hype, I\u2019m out. For me, fall 2026 is about that \u201csoul match\u201d where the creator\u2019s intent perfectly clicks with my inner truth.\u00a0It\u2019s pure, intentional luxury that resonates on a deeper level.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets up, down or flat: I\u2019m cutting back overall, but for the right brands, I\u2019m ready to double down or stay steady.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend, or being more cautious: I\u2019m all about one-of-a-kind pieces that deliver that \u201cwow\u201d factor through insane craftsmanship. I want to build deep ties with brands that offer a total, soulful vision. But honestly? If the technical skill or ethical backbone feels thin, I\u2019m being extra cautious. It\u2019s not just about the look \u2014 it\u2019s about that \u201csoul match\u201d and a commitment to real quality that actually resonates. That\u2019s where I\u2019m putting my energy.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: I\u2019m vibing with textile geeks and brands that stay rooted in their local community.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: Molli, Nour Hammour, Heirlome, Nami<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Dries Van Noten: It felt like a deep dive back to the basics really tuning into our inner memories and raw emotions.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: It feels like fall 2026 has shifted beyond just \u201cback to basics\u201d into a true \u201creturn to essence.\u201d It\u2019s a deeper dive into our inner memories and raw emotions. The real key now is deepening that trust tuning in to find the \u201csoul match\u201d that actually resonates with who we are.It\u2019s about cutting through the noise to identify the authentic pieces that align with our inner truth. That\u2019s the real luxury.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: The quiet resonance of intent.<\/p>\n
\t\tEric Young, owner, Le Monde De SHC\t<\/p>\n
\n\tFavorite collections: Tom Ford, Meta Campania Collective, Dries van Noten<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that will matter: The economic climate hasn\u2019t improved much, and during fashion week we even saw new geopolitical conflicts emerge. In response, many womenswear collections seem to be moving in the opposite direction \u2014 seeking visibility and impact.<\/p>\n
\n\tFrom the runway perspective, brands clearly want pieces that leave an immediate impression and generate conversation. As a result, we\u2019re seeing a strong revival of bold, heavily stylized \u201980s aesthetics.<\/p>\n
\n\tTrend that won\u2019t: What people call \u201cquiet luxury\u201d is quietly stepping away from the center of the stage. I don\u2019t think it will disappear, but it will probably no longer dominate the fashion narrative the way it has in recent seasons.<\/p>\n
\n\tBudgets up, down or flat: Budgets are mostly flat, and we remain cautious. The focus is less on expanding the number of brands and more on identifying collections that genuinely resonate with our clients.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhere are you increasing spend, or being more cautious? From a business perspective, LMDS is responding to the return of more expressive fashion while continuing to introduce our clients to different interpretations of refined luxury.<\/p>\n
\n\tPersonally, I think \u201cquiet luxury\u201d is somewhat of a misleading term. What interests me more are collections where design, tailoring and fabric innovation come together in a forward-looking way. In that sense, some brands associated with the trend \u2014 like The Row \u2014 can sometimes feel a bit too driven by online hype.<\/p>\n
\n\tCategories with a deeper buy this season: LMDS has always enjoyed introducing bold design ideas to our clients. This season we\u2019ll increase our focus on pieces with luxurious fabrics and strong artisanal detailing.<\/p>\n
\n\tAt the same time, I\u2019ve noticed the rise of an intellectual American aesthetic, something that Celine has been leading recently. It feels commercially promising and is definitely a direction we\u2019re interested in exploring further.<\/p>\n
\n\tNew discoveries or emerging brand buys: This season didn\u2019t really feel like a breakout moment for new designers. Many major houses are still going through phases of reinvention, which makes it even harder for emerging brands.<\/p>\n
\n\tThat said, Meta Campania Collective stood out. It\u2019s an independent brand with a distinctly American casual spirit \u2014 very restrained design but extremely refined fabric choices.<\/p>\n
\n\tAnother discovery is the Italian label Vautrait. The designer is quite young, yet the collection carries a strong sense of cultural depth rooted in northern Italy. It feels stylish but also very personal.<\/p>\n
\n\tOn a personal note, I\u2019m also very fond of Mati\u00e8res F\u00e9cales.<\/p>\n
\n\tShow that best met the moment: Gucci [during Milan Fashion Week]. When the first model stepped out of the dry ice smoke, it was immediately clear that Demna understands exactly how to orchestrate emotion in a fashion show.<\/p>\n
\n\tUnder his direction, Gucci seems ready to redefine what a flagship luxury house can be. I believe the brand has the potential to move beyond traditional luxury boundaries and become a platform that actively shapes contemporary urban culture. That\u2019s something worth watching closely.<\/p>\n
\n\tDid you feel any \u201cvibe shift\u201d this season: Overall the mood felt somewhat subdued.<\/p>\n
\n\tI\u2019m not someone who blindly admires Demna, but if more of the major houses that changed creative directors recently had his level of vision and willingness to reshape the system, the industry landscape could look much more exciting.<\/p>\n
\n\tInstead, many of the new collections in Paris right now seem to rely heavily on marketing and PR to generate momentum.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe season in one word: Cautious<\/p>\n
\n\t\u2014 With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang.<\/p>\n
#Buyers #Favor #Coats #Corsets #Chanel #Buzz<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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