<\/p>\n
\n\tJennifer Tommasi Bardelle is a spitfire.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe owner of the upscale denim and lifestyle brand Jacob Coh\u00ebn has survived a slew of tragedies in her life, but she\u2019s never lost her passion for the brand or the fashion industry.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe Long Island, N.Y.-born and Milan-based Tommasi Bardelle is the widow of Nicola Bardelle who set out to transform the denim business with a premium jeans brand.<\/p>\n
\n\tAs the story goes, the Jacob Coh\u00ebn brand was created by Nicola Bardelle\u2019s father Tato in 1985. The family was considered a denim dynasty with a long history manufacturing jeans for some of the world\u2019s best-known brands. They also created the popular Americanino jean that was centered around the American lifestyle.<\/p>\n
\n\tBut Tato Bardelle believed there was an opportunity to move into the premium market. So he established Jacob Coh\u00ebn and named it in honor of Jacob Davis, the inventor of the rivet, adding the Cohen name to differentiate it from his other business and honor the Jewish heritage of Levi Strauss.<\/p>\n
\n\tAlthough the Bardelle family had become one of the richest in Italy, they fell on hard times in the 1990s, lost everything and filed bankruptcy, Tommasi Bardelle said, and the Jacob Coh\u00ebn brand became dormant. That was until 2002 when Nicola Bardelle revived the name with a mission to create luxury jeans for men. He used only noble and precious fabrics such as Japanese Kurabo and tailored, yet comfortable, silhouettes and personalized each pair with jeweled buttons, hand-embroidery, linings that traditionally are used for shirts and pony-hair back labels.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cHe started with two fabrics in three washes,\u201d she said, adding that women\u2019s models were introduced soon after.<\/p>\n
\n\tHe also produced high-end leather apparel, another of his passions.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe brand had found a licensee and was in expansion mode when tragedy struck. In August 2012, Nicola Bardelle was visiting Saint-Tropez where Jacob Coh\u00ebn had just opened its first store and was killed in a motorcycle accident, leaving his wife and two small children.<\/p>\n
\n\tTommasi Bardelle was devastated, but also determined to keep her husband\u2019s vision alive. \u201cJacob Coh\u00ebn was our third child,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n
\n\tFrom then on, she worked tirelessly to regain the license, a process that she said resulted in a dozen lawsuits. Once they were resolved in 2023, she was able to gain control of the brand and elevate Luca Roda, a longtime supporter of the company, to chief executive officer.<\/p>\n
\n\tFast forward to today and Tommasi Bardelle\u2019s baby is opening its first store in the U.S., at 790 Madison Avenue on 67th Street. The 3,121-square-foot corner flagship is located inside a 1960s modernist building and boasts 12 large windows, six on the ground floor and six on the second level.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe store was designed by Storage Milano in partnership with Tommasi Bardelle and is a physical manifestation of the brand. Denim, leather, wood, metal and minerals have transformed the space into a contemporary setting that is unquestionably upscale but also warm and home-like. The brand\u2019s signature fragrance wafts through the store, which houses womenswear on the ground floor and men\u2019s on the second level.<\/p>\n
\n\tWalls and ceilings are finished in hand-applied cement-based plaster. The same material is used for the moldings. The floor is made from gray klinker tiles laid in a herringbone pattern.<\/p>\n
\n\tLeather plays a central role, used on walls, displays upholstered surfaces and the staircase, complete with a backlit skylight, with its handcrafted wood moldings covered by hand in leather. The same principle is repeated on the walls, which are composed of a sequence of upholstered panels. On selected panels, the Jacob Coh\u00ebn monogram is also crafted in leather.<\/p>\n
\n\tTommasi Bardelle said the staircase along took one-and-a-half months to complete, pushing back the store opening date.<\/p>\n
\n\tDenim, the foundation of the Jacob Coh\u00ebn brand, also becomes part of the design, used on the upholstered wall panels. Between the panels, a vertical rail system allows shelves and hanging bars to be positioned and rearranged.<\/p>\n
\n\tLight and dark leather and denim are complemented by rotary-cut okoum\u00e9 wood, sanded, stained and finished with shellac.<\/p>\n
\n\tIn front of the windows, there are articulated metal screens made of steel with a brushed light-gold finish.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe second floor, which Tommasi Bardelle described as a \u201cgentleman\u2019s club,\u201d has a bar that\u2019s finished in denim and wood with a backdrop of textured glass in orange tones with a brushed light-gold finish. There\u2019s also a pool table, made by a 150-year-old company in Naples, Italy, and furnishings created in collaboration with Asnaghi.<\/p>\n
\n\tShe said the bar will serve a special barley cappuccino that she discovered in a spa in Europe that is also served at the company\u2019s store in Milan.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe fitting rooms for both men and women are conceived as small, self-contained spaces. Each features ribbed velvet walls in beige and blue; one women\u2019s room features custom wallpaper developed specifically for the New York store. The walls will require store employees to comb them several times a day, she said.<\/p>\n
\n\tA lower level, not accessible to the public, features a kitchen, office and storage.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhile the details and care taken to create the store are unmistakable, it\u2019s still the merchandise that is front and center. Tommasi Bardelle said each pair of jeans has a distinct patch and buttons. The linings are also individualized and each men\u2019s pair comes with a matching bandana. These details are changed seasonally. The washing details are printed inside and the labels are made from high-end Japanese paper. Most retail for around $500 with limited-edition models selling for more.<\/p>\n
\n\tAlthough jeans remain the hallmark of the brand, the collection also features outerwear, sweaters, trousers, blazers, knitwear and T-shirts.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cDenim is still at our core, but how many jeans can people have,\u201d Tommasi Bardelle said.<\/p>\n
\n\tShe said she chose New York for her first U.S. store because it was the state in which she was born and there\u2019s \u201clots of potential\u201d to further expand the brand\u2019s reach in the States with a flagship in the city. \u201cIt\u2019s a statement,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\tThe Jacob Coh\u00ebn flagship on Madison Avenue.<\/p>\n
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tcourtesy<\/p>\n
\n\tJacob Coh\u00ebn also operates stores in Paris, Saint-Tropez and Nice, France; Milan, Rome, Forte dei Marmi and Taormina, Italy; Geneva, Switzerland; Puerto Ban\u00fas and Palma de Mallorca, Spain; Antwerp and Knokke, Belgium; Prague, Czech Republic; Oslo; Tokyo (Midtown and Ginza) and Osaka, Japan. The brand has a robust wholesale business with retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Andrisen Morton, Boyds, the Mitchells stores, Harry Rosen and Holt Renfrew, among others.<\/p>\n
\n\tTommasi Bardelle said her goal is for Jacob Coh\u00ebn to grow \u201cstep by step,\u201d and rather than open a showroom in the States, the store will fill that role. \u201cThis is my business card,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n
\n\tIn the future, she\u2019d like to add other units in cities such as Miami or Palm Beach, Fla., and Aspen.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cThe opening of our first flagship store in the U.S. is a major milestone for us,\u201d Tommasi Bardelle said. \u201cIt means competing in the home market of denim. It is a challenge that Jacob Coh\u00ebn has enthusiastically embraced, drawing on its expertise, Italian style and the exceptional quality of the materials used in our collections. I believe all our stores should be places where people come together, even before they become places to shop. I envisioned the New York store as a sophisticated and elegant living room, rigorously Made in Italy, just like every Jacob Coh\u00ebn item, where our men\u2019s and women\u2019s collections become elements of design, to be admired before being worn.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tThe store officially opens on Oct. 27.<\/p>\n
#Jacob #Coh\u00ebn #Opens #U.S #Flagship #Madison #Avenue<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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